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Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

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Re: [time-nuts] OT stuffing boards: was GPS interface/prototyping board

BS
Bob Stewart
Thu, Jun 23, 2016 10:38 PM

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business.

Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die.  Thanks for the responses!

Bob


GFS GPSDO list:
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info


On Thu, 6/23/16, Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT stuffing boards: was GPS interface/prototyping board
To: "Bob Stewart" bob@evoria.net, "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Thursday, June 23, 2016, 5:27 PM

Hi

Around here, assuming:

  1. You supply all the parts on full reels with
    leaders
  2. There is no hand assembly
    work
  3. You already have framed stencils
    that are the correct size for their gear

You have multiple proper solder and placement fiducials  on
both sides
5) The boards are designed to
mount on their gear
6) Your parts and design
rules fit their gear and rules.
7) No
electrical test, visual inspect only.
8)
Best effort only, If the part does not solder etc, you
replace it on your time.

You can get various places to look at a batch
for $500 to $1000. If your stencils !=
their
stencils figure $100 to $200 each.

If you want to ship things a ways, you can save
a bit of money. Shipping plus packing
always seems to be a bit expensive.

By far the best approach is to
get all of their rules before you start a board layout.
Then
do it in whatever arrays / panel size
they are set up for and all the other little details.

This all starts to make a lot
more sense to the local outfits when you are talking a few
hundred boards.
Even more so if it is a few
hundred boards a month, every month for a few years.

====

Some math:

120
parts on 10 boards is 1200 parts. A good machine will do
that in < 6 minutes. Setting up the machine,
loading and unloading the machine, pulling
boards on and off the machine, programming the whole thing,

validating everything ….. that’s an
afternoon’s worth of work (maybe more) and maybe an hour
of down time
on the machine.

====

Of course for a few thousand dollars you can
buy your own pick and place machine ….

Bob

On Jun 23, 2016, at 3:28 PM, Bob Stewart

One more

related question before this topic dies, if you don't
mind.  What about the other side of building: stuffing the
boards.  My GPSDOs have about 120 parts per board, plus
some custom work on the SMA connectors.  Is there a service
out there that will populate boards with SMT components for
small orders at a reasonable price?  Small is 10 boards.

Bob - AE6RV


GFS GPSDO list:

groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info


On Wed, 6/22/16, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com

wrote:

Subject:

Re: [time-nuts] RS232 / GPS interface/prototyping board

To: "Discussion of precise time and

frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com,
"Nick Sayer" nsayer@kfu.com

Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 6:06 PM

Life is so much

easier

now,  dirtypcb is a great

service,  I have a pile of

boards here

from them which are far greater

quality

than anything I could

hope to
produce at home or even in the lab I used

to have.

They're also
better quality than any of
the local board houses I used in the

past.

Having said

that,  I did hand

manufacture fifty

single sided boards from

photo laminate

to completed product in one

weekend

using a Dremel drill

press for
somewhere around four thousand holes and

hand soldering

every
component so it was definitely
possible
On 23 Jun

2016 00:01, "Nick

Sayer via

time-nuts" time-nuts@febo.com

wrote:


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Thanks Bob et al, This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business. Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die. Thanks for the responses! Bob ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- GFS GPSDO list: groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 6/23/16, Bob Camp <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT stuffing boards: was GPS interface/prototyping board To: "Bob Stewart" <bob@evoria.net>, "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Thursday, June 23, 2016, 5:27 PM Hi Around here, assuming: 1) You supply all the parts on full reels with leaders 2) There is no hand assembly work 3) You already have framed stencils that are the correct size for their gear 4) You have multiple proper solder and placement fiducials  on both sides 5) The boards are designed to mount on their gear 6) Your parts and design rules fit their gear and rules. 7) No electrical test, visual inspect only. 8) Best effort only, If the part does not solder etc, you replace it on your time. You can get various places to look at a batch for $500 to $1000. If your stencils != their stencils figure $100 to $200 each. If you want to ship things a ways, you can save a bit of money. Shipping plus packing always seems to be a bit expensive. By far the best approach is to get all of their rules before you start a board layout. Then do it in whatever arrays / panel size they are set up for and all the other little details. This all starts to make a lot more sense to the local outfits when you are talking a few hundred boards. Even more so if it is a few hundred boards a month, every month for a few years. ==== Some math: 120 parts on 10 boards is 1200 parts. A good machine will do that in < 6 minutes. Setting up the machine, loading and unloading the machine, pulling boards on and off the machine, programming the whole thing, validating everything ….. that’s an afternoon’s worth of work (maybe more) and maybe an hour of down time on the machine. ==== Of course for a few thousand dollars you can buy your own pick and place machine …. Bob > On Jun 23, 2016, at 3:28 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: > > One more related question before this topic dies, if you don't mind.  What about the other side of building: stuffing the boards.  My GPSDOs have about 120 parts per board, plus some custom work on the SMA connectors.  Is there a service out there that will populate boards with SMT components for small orders at a reasonable price?  Small is 10 boards. > > Bob - AE6RV > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > GFS GPSDO list: > groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info > > -------------------------------------------- > On Wed, 6/22/16, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote: > > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] RS232 / GPS interface/prototyping board > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com>, "Nick Sayer" <nsayer@kfu.com> > Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 6:06 PM > > Life is so much easier > now,  dirtypcb is a great service,  I have a pile of > boards here from them which are far greater > quality than anything I could > hope to > produce at home or even in the lab I used to have. > They're also > better quality than any of > the local board houses I used in the past. > > Having said that,  I did hand > manufacture fifty single sided boards from > photo laminate to completed product in one > weekend using a Dremel drill > press for > somewhere around four thousand holes and hand soldering > every > component so it was definitely > possible > On 23 Jun 2016 00:01, "Nick > Sayer via time-nuts" <time-nuts@febo.com> > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
BC
Bob Camp
Thu, Jun 23, 2016 11:21 PM

Hi

You can indeed get a pick and place for under a thousand dollars. I wold not use one of them, but they do exist. It all depends on how much of an “advantage” you want over a hand place approach. A half way decent screen printer will run $500. Some sort of reflow setup will be a couple hundred. You can go cheap on the printer and get it down to $100 or so. A rebuilt toaster oven will run $20 or less. It all is a matter of how much hassle / how tight pitch you want to deal with.

Bob

On Jun 23, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net wrote:

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business.

Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die.  Thanks for the responses!

Bob


GFS GPSDO list:
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info


On Thu, 6/23/16, Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT stuffing boards: was GPS interface/prototyping board
To: "Bob Stewart" bob@evoria.net, "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Thursday, June 23, 2016, 5:27 PM

Hi

Around here, assuming:

  1. You supply all the parts on full reels with
    leaders
  2. There is no hand assembly
    work
  3. You already have framed stencils
    that are the correct size for their gear

You have multiple proper solder and placement fiducials  on
both sides
5) The boards are designed to
mount on their gear
6) Your parts and design
rules fit their gear and rules.
7) No
electrical test, visual inspect only.
8)
Best effort only, If the part does not solder etc, you
replace it on your time.

You can get various places to look at a batch
for $500 to $1000. If your stencils !=
their
stencils figure $100 to $200 each.

If you want to ship things a ways, you can save
a bit of money. Shipping plus packing
always seems to be a bit expensive.

By far the best approach is to
get all of their rules before you start a board layout.
Then
do it in whatever arrays / panel size
they are set up for and all the other little details.

This all starts to make a lot
more sense to the local outfits when you are talking a few
hundred boards.
Even more so if it is a few
hundred boards a month, every month for a few years.

====

Some math:

120
parts on 10 boards is 1200 parts. A good machine will do
that in < 6 minutes. Setting up the machine,
loading and unloading the machine, pulling
boards on and off the machine, programming the whole thing,

validating everything ….. that’s an
afternoon’s worth of work (maybe more) and maybe an hour
of down time
on the machine.

====

Of course for a few thousand dollars you can
buy your own pick and place machine ….

Bob

On Jun 23, 2016, at 3:28 PM, Bob Stewart

One more

related question before this topic dies, if you don't
mind.  What about the other side of building: stuffing the
boards.  My GPSDOs have about 120 parts per board, plus
some custom work on the SMA connectors.  Is there a service
out there that will populate boards with SMT components for
small orders at a reasonable price?  Small is 10 boards.

Bob - AE6RV


GFS GPSDO list:

groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info


On Wed, 6/22/16, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com

wrote:

Subject:

Re: [time-nuts] RS232 / GPS interface/prototyping board

To: "Discussion of precise time and

frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com,
"Nick Sayer" nsayer@kfu.com

Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 6:06 PM

Life is so much

easier

now,  dirtypcb is a great

service,  I have a pile of

boards here

from them which are far greater

quality

than anything I could

hope to
produce at home or even in the lab I used

to have.

They're also
better quality than any of
the local board houses I used in the

past.

Having said

that,  I did hand

manufacture fifty

single sided boards from

photo laminate

to completed product in one

weekend

using a Dremel drill

press for
somewhere around four thousand holes and

hand soldering

every
component so it was definitely
possible
On 23 Jun

2016 00:01, "Nick

Sayer via

time-nuts" time-nuts@febo.com

wrote:


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi You can indeed get a pick and place for under a thousand dollars. I wold not use one of them, but they do exist. It all depends on how much of an “advantage” you want over a hand place approach. A half way decent screen printer will run $500. Some sort of reflow setup will be a couple hundred. You can go cheap on the printer and get it down to $100 or so. A rebuilt toaster oven will run $20 or less. It all is a matter of how much hassle / how tight pitch you want to deal with. Bob > On Jun 23, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: > > Thanks Bob et al, > > This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business. > > Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die. Thanks for the responses! > > Bob > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > GFS GPSDO list: > groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info > > -------------------------------------------- > On Thu, 6/23/16, Bob Camp <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT stuffing boards: was GPS interface/prototyping board > To: "Bob Stewart" <bob@evoria.net>, "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Date: Thursday, June 23, 2016, 5:27 PM > > Hi > > Around here, assuming: > > 1) You supply all the parts on full reels with > leaders > 2) There is no hand assembly > work > 3) You already have framed stencils > that are the correct size for their gear > 4) > You have multiple proper solder and placement fiducials on > both sides > 5) The boards are designed to > mount on their gear > 6) Your parts and design > rules fit their gear and rules. > 7) No > electrical test, visual inspect only. > 8) > Best effort only, If the part does not solder etc, you > replace it on your time. > > You can get various places to look at a batch > for $500 to $1000. If your stencils != > their > stencils figure $100 to $200 each. > > If you want to ship things a ways, you can save > a bit of money. Shipping plus packing > always seems to be a bit expensive. > > By far the best approach is to > get all of their rules before you start a board layout. > Then > do it in whatever arrays / panel size > they are set up for and all the other little details. > > This all starts to make a lot > more sense to the local outfits when you are talking a few > hundred boards. > Even more so if it is a few > hundred boards a month, every month for a few years. > > ==== > > Some math: > > 120 > parts on 10 boards is 1200 parts. A good machine will do > that in < 6 minutes. Setting up the machine, > loading and unloading the machine, pulling > boards on and off the machine, programming the whole thing, > > validating everything ….. that’s an > afternoon’s worth of work (maybe more) and maybe an hour > of down time > on the machine. > > ==== > > Of course for a few thousand dollars you can > buy your own pick and place machine …. > > Bob > > >> On Jun 23, 2016, at 3:28 PM, Bob Stewart > <bob@evoria.net> > wrote: >> >> One more > related question before this topic dies, if you don't > mind. What about the other side of building: stuffing the > boards. My GPSDOs have about 120 parts per board, plus > some custom work on the SMA connectors. Is there a service > out there that will populate boards with SMT components for > small orders at a reasonable price? Small is 10 boards. >> >> Bob - AE6RV >> >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> GFS GPSDO list: >> > groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/GFS-GPSDOs/info >> >> > -------------------------------------------- >> On Wed, 6/22/16, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> > wrote: >> >> Subject: > Re: [time-nuts] RS232 / GPS interface/prototyping board >> To: "Discussion of precise time and > frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com>, > "Nick Sayer" <nsayer@kfu.com> >> Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 6:06 PM >> >> Life is so much > easier >> now, dirtypcb is a great > service, I have a pile of >> boards here > from them which are far greater >> quality > than anything I could >> hope to >> produce at home or even in the lab I used > to have. >> They're also >> better quality than any of >> the local board houses I used in the > past. >> >> Having said > that, I did hand >> manufacture fifty > single sided boards from >> photo laminate > to completed product in one >> weekend > using a Dremel drill >> press for >> somewhere around four thousand holes and > hand soldering >> every >> component so it was definitely >> possible >> On 23 Jun > 2016 00:01, "Nick >> Sayer via > time-nuts" <time-nuts@febo.com> >> wrote: >> > _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
CA
Chris Albertson
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 12:58 AM

This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of
the art electronic today.  You can't continue to live in the 1970s
using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads.  So how to make small batches of
custom designs.

The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are
willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts
at a time and work on small boards.  The RapRap type 3d printers
don't cost much to build.  A pick and place is not much more than a 3d
printer with a different nozzle.    You can find people doing this on
other email lists that deal with robots

For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to
build almost anything without need of a custom PCB.

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net wrote:

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business.

--

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of the art electronic today. You can't continue to live in the 1970s using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads. So how to make small batches of custom designs. The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts at a time and work on small boards. The RapRap type 3d printers don't cost much to build. A pick and place is not much more than a 3d printer with a different nozzle. You can find people doing this on other email lists that deal with robots For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to build almost anything without need of a custom PCB. On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: > Thanks Bob et al, > > This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business. -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California
O
Oz-in-DFW
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 1:16 AM

I'll second this, and suggest you consider:

  1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the
    "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.)
  2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't
    using them continuously each new run is a new and different
    experience.  Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards.
  3. You can only place a limited list of parts for a run.  If you have
    one more part than the machine will accomodate, its a second (or
    third, or fourth pass.)
  4. They are all high maintenance in addition to requiring tuning. A lot
    of the maintenance is based on calendar, not operation time.  Even
    and idle machine requires time if you actually want to use it
    eventually.
  5. Most are closed software loops. You work around their poor (or un)
    documented formats and bugs.
  6. There are really cheap small batch assembly houses coming online
    that will do under 10 units. See Macrofab, PC:NG, Small Batch
    Assembly are fairly quick turns.

If all you are doing is protos, hand placement, mylar solder stencils
(see Oshstencils and others) and a hacked toaster oven are a good
solution. The $500 Chinese reflow ovens seem to require more (re)work
that a $50 toaster oven.  If you use stencils to place the solder, part
placement is as fast (or faster) than through hole parts. I have to use
a microscope.  I'm shaky enough that  may need to built some Waldoes
soon.  ;-)

I just did six moderately complex boards (no fine pitch parts) and that
was 2-3 too many for me.

Solder stencils make all the difference.

Oz, in DFW

On 6/23/2016 6:21 PM, Bob Camp wrote:

Hi

You can indeed get a pick and place for under a thousand dollars. I wold not use one of them, but they do exist. It all depends on how much of an “advantage” you want over a hand place approach. A half way decent screen printer will run $500. Some sort of reflow setup will be a couple hundred. You can go cheap on the printer and get it down to $100 or so. A rebuilt toaster oven will run $20 or less. It all is a matter of how much hassle / how tight pitch you want to deal with.

Bob

On Jun 23, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net wrote:

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business.

Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die.  Thanks for the responses!

Bob

--
mailto:oz@ozindfw.net
Oz
POB 93167
Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)

I'll second this, and suggest you consider: 1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.) 2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't using them continuously each new run is a new and different experience. Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards. 3. You can only place a limited list of parts for a run. If you have one more part than the machine will accomodate, its a second (or third, or fourth pass.) 4. They are all high maintenance in addition to requiring tuning. A lot of the maintenance is based on calendar, not operation time. Even and idle machine requires time if you actually want to use it eventually. 5. Most are closed software loops. You work around their poor (or un) documented formats and bugs. 6. There are really cheap small batch assembly houses coming online that will do under 10 units. See Macrofab, PC:NG, Small Batch Assembly are fairly quick turns. If all you are doing is protos, hand placement, mylar solder stencils (see Oshstencils and others) and a hacked toaster oven are a good solution. The $500 Chinese reflow ovens seem to require more (re)work that a $50 toaster oven. If you use stencils to place the solder, part placement is as fast (or faster) than through hole parts. I have to use a microscope. I'm shaky enough that may need to built some Waldoes soon. ;-) I just did six moderately complex boards (no fine pitch parts) and that was 2-3 too many for me. Solder stencils make **all** the difference. Oz, in DFW On 6/23/2016 6:21 PM, Bob Camp wrote: > Hi > > You can indeed get a pick and place for under a thousand dollars. I wold not use one of them, but they do exist. It all depends on how much of an “advantage” you want over a hand place approach. A half way decent screen printer will run $500. Some sort of reflow setup will be a couple hundred. You can go cheap on the printer and get it down to $100 or so. A rebuilt toaster oven will run $20 or less. It all is a matter of how much hassle / how tight pitch you want to deal with. > > Bob > >> On Jun 23, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: >> >> Thanks Bob et al, >> >> This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business. >> >> Anyway, I've had my say and we can let this die. Thanks for the responses! >> >> Bob -- mailto:oz@ozindfw.net Oz POB 93167 Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)
G/
Graham / KE9H
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 2:15 AM

We use
"Advanced Assembly" in Colorado for prototype assembly.
http://aa-pcbassembly.com/

For just one or two boards, it is faster to hand solder the parts, as long
as no BGA's or similar.

If complex soldering like BGAs, or more than three boards, we use a proto
assembly house.

--- Graham

==

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 7:58 PM, Chris Albertson albertson.chris@gmail.com
wrote:

This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of
the art electronic today.  You can't continue to live in the 1970s
using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads.  So how to make small batches of
custom designs.

The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are
willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts
at a time and work on small boards.  The RapRap type 3d printers
don't cost much to build.  A pick and place is not much more than a 3d
printer with a different nozzle.    You can find people doing this on
other email lists that deal with robots

For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to
build almost anything without need of a custom PCB.

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net wrote:

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long

it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to
become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny
electronics business.

--

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

We use "Advanced Assembly" in Colorado for prototype assembly. http://aa-pcbassembly.com/ For just one or two boards, it is faster to hand solder the parts, as long as no BGA's or similar. If complex soldering like BGAs, or more than three boards, we use a proto assembly house. --- Graham == On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 7:58 PM, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@gmail.com> wrote: > This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of > the art electronic today. You can't continue to live in the 1970s > using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads. So how to make small batches of > custom designs. > > The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are > willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts > at a time and work on small boards. The RapRap type 3d printers > don't cost much to build. A pick and place is not much more than a 3d > printer with a different nozzle. You can find people doing this on > other email lists that deal with robots > > For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to > build almost anything without need of a custom PCB. > > On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: > > Thanks Bob et al, > > > > This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long > it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to > become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny > electronics business. > > -- > > Chris Albertson > Redondo Beach, California > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
BC
Bob Camp
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 2:36 AM

Hi

The gotcha with “really slow” is that once you print the solder paste on the board, it has a very
limited “open air” life. If you don’t get the board done fairly quickly, your soldering quality can
suffer quite a bit.

Bob

On Jun 23, 2016, at 8:58 PM, Chris Albertson albertson.chris@gmail.com wrote:

This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of
the art electronic today.  You can't continue to live in the 1970s
using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads.  So how to make small batches of
custom designs.

The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are
willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts
at a time and work on small boards.  The RapRap type 3d printers
don't cost much to build.  A pick and place is not much more than a 3d
printer with a different nozzle.    You can find people doing this on
other email lists that deal with robots

For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to
build almost anything without need of a custom PCB.

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net wrote:

Thanks Bob et al,

This is about what I expected, but I had to ask.  I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred?  That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business.

--

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California


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Hi The gotcha with “really slow” is that once you print the solder paste on the board, it has a very limited “open air” life. If you don’t get the board done fairly quickly, your soldering quality can suffer quite a bit. Bob > On Jun 23, 2016, at 8:58 PM, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@gmail.com> wrote: > > This is a very important topic for anyone who wants to build state of > the art electronic today. You can't continue to live in the 1970s > using DIP parts with 0.1 inch leads. So how to make small batches of > custom designs. > > The pick and place machine could be very inexpensive if you are > willing to let it run very slow using only one or two really of parts > at a time and work on small boards. The RapRap type 3d printers > don't cost much to build. A pick and place is not much more than a 3d > printer with a different nozzle. You can find people doing this on > other email lists that deal with robots > > For most projects these SBCs (arduino, Pi 3, BBB,...) allow you to > build almost anything without need of a custom PCB. > > On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> wrote: >> Thanks Bob et al, >> >> This is about what I expected, but I had to ask. I wonder how long it'll take for that several thousand bucks for a pick-n-place machine to become a couple hundred? That would be the final hurdle for the tiny electronics business. > > -- > > Chris Albertson > Redondo Beach, California > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
O
Oz-in-DFW
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 1:45 PM

On 6/23/2016 9:36 PM, Bob Camp wrote:

Hi

The gotcha with “really slow” is that once you print the solder paste on the board, it has a very
limited “open air” life. If you don’t get the board done fairly quickly, your soldering quality can
suffer quite a bit.

Bob

For most of the paste formulations I've had no trouble with several
hours of working time. So you need to get at it, but really don't end up
hurting yourself, but can't leave it overnight. .

--
mailto:oz@ozindfw.net
Oz
POB 93167
Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)

On 6/23/2016 9:36 PM, Bob Camp wrote: > Hi > > The gotcha with “really slow” is that once you print the solder paste on the board, it has a very > limited “open air” life. If you don’t get the board done fairly quickly, your soldering quality can > suffer quite a bit. > > Bob > For most of the paste formulations I've had no trouble with several hours of working time. So you need to get at it, but really don't end up hurting yourself, but can't leave it overnight. . -- mailto:oz@ozindfw.net Oz POB 93167 Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)
AK
Attila Kinali
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 2:32 PM

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 20:16:34 -0500
Oz-in-DFW lists@ozindfw.net wrote:

  1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the
    "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.)
  2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't
    using them continuously each new run is a new and different
    experience.  Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards.

The trick is to use semi-manual pick&place machines for low volumes.
Ie machines that you do not program, but guide by hand. This allows
faster and more accurate placing of components than would be possible
with a pure manual process, but does not have any of the complexity
of the fully automated solutions. The components do not need to be
100% exactly centered, as the surface tension of the molten solder will
pull the parts into place (which is also the reason why the copper inside
the solder resist mask should be symmetric).

These machines are still all pretty expensive (IMHO, the cheapest
start from around 2kusd IIRC), but with the continuous growth of the hobbyist
market, and that market becomming more and more professional/proficient,
the production volumes of these  machines will for sure rise and thus become
cheaper. I am pretty sure that we will see hobbyist marketed pick&place systems
build upon open source based control systems in the next couple of years.
There are already a couple of DIY systems out there, that look quite good.
e.g http://vpapanik.blogspot.de/2012/11/low-budget-manual-pick-place.html
http://www.briandorey.com/post/Diy-Manual-Pick-and-Place-Machine-part-1

Solder stencils make all the difference.

Oh, yes! Please, do not try syringe dispensers! These fail more often than
they work. Also pay the additional couple of bucks to get a steel stencil
instead of a kapton one. Especially if you make more than one or two boards
or those with fine pitch.

		Attila Kinali

--
It is upon moral qualities that a society is ultimately founded. All
the prosperity and technological sophistication in the world is of no
use without that foundation.
-- Miss Matheson, The Diamond Age, Neil Stephenson

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 20:16:34 -0500 Oz-in-DFW <lists@ozindfw.net> wrote: > 1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the > "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.) > 2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't > using them continuously each new run is a new and different > experience. Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards. The trick is to use semi-manual pick&place machines for low volumes. Ie machines that you do not program, but guide by hand. This allows faster and more accurate placing of components than would be possible with a pure manual process, but does not have any of the complexity of the fully automated solutions. The components do not need to be 100% exactly centered, as the surface tension of the molten solder will pull the parts into place (which is also the reason why the copper inside the solder resist mask should be symmetric). These machines are still all pretty expensive (IMHO, the cheapest start from around 2kusd IIRC), but with the continuous growth of the hobbyist market, and that market becomming more and more professional/proficient, the production volumes of these machines will for sure rise and thus become cheaper. I am pretty sure that we will see hobbyist marketed pick&place systems build upon open source based control systems in the next couple of years. There are already a couple of DIY systems out there, that look quite good. e.g http://vpapanik.blogspot.de/2012/11/low-budget-manual-pick-place.html http://www.briandorey.com/post/Diy-Manual-Pick-and-Place-Machine-part-1 > Solder stencils make **all** the difference. Oh, yes! Please, do not try syringe dispensers! These fail more often than they work. Also pay the additional couple of bucks to get a steel stencil instead of a kapton one. Especially if you make more than one or two boards or those with fine pitch. Attila Kinali -- It is upon moral qualities that a society is ultimately founded. All the prosperity and technological sophistication in the world is of no use without that foundation. -- Miss Matheson, The Diamond Age, Neil Stephenson
BC
Brooke Clarke
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 4:46 PM

Hi:

For IC pitches of 0.050" (1.27mm) hand soldering works fine, even for my vision when a stereo microscope is used.
Elmer's glue to hold the chips is place.

Getting boards from ExpressPCB that have solder mask helps to prevent bridging.

Here is an example:
http://www.prc68.com/I/BTSG.shtml

--
Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html
The lesser of evils is still evil.

Hi: For IC pitches of 0.050" (1.27mm) hand soldering works fine, even for my vision when a stereo microscope is used. Elmer's glue to hold the chips is place. Getting boards from ExpressPCB that have solder mask helps to prevent bridging. Here is an example: http://www.prc68.com/I/BTSG.shtml -- Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html The lesser of evils is still evil.
DL
Don Latham
Fri, Jun 24, 2016 4:52 PM

I do not see why a small pick and place assist system could not be built on a 3-d printer.
Don

On Jun 24, 2016, at 8:32 AM, Attila Kinali attila@kinali.ch wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 20:16:34 -0500
Oz-in-DFW lists@ozindfw.net wrote:

  1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the
    "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.)
  2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't
    using them continuously each new run is a new and different
    experience.  Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards.

The trick is to use semi-manual pick&place machines for low volumes.
Ie machines that you do not program, but guide by hand. This allows
faster and more accurate placing of components than would be possible
with a pure manual process, but does not have any of the complexity
of the fully automated solutions. The components do not need to be
100% exactly centered, as the surface tension of the molten solder will
pull the parts into place (which is also the reason why the copper inside
the solder resist mask should be symmetric).

These machines are still all pretty expensive (IMHO, the cheapest
start from around 2kusd IIRC), but with the continuous growth of the hobbyist
market, and that market becomming more and more professional/proficient,
the production volumes of these  machines will for sure rise and thus become
cheaper. I am pretty sure that we will see hobbyist marketed pick&place systems
build upon open source based control systems in the next couple of years.
There are already a couple of DIY systems out there, that look quite good.
e.g http://vpapanik.blogspot.de/2012/11/low-budget-manual-pick-place.html
http://www.briandorey.com/post/Diy-Manual-Pick-and-Place-Machine-part-1

Solder stencils make all the difference.

Oh, yes! Please, do not try syringe dispensers! These fail more often than
they work. Also pay the additional couple of bucks to get a steel stencil
instead of a kapton one. Especially if you make more than one or two boards
or those with fine pitch.

		Attila Kinali

--
It is upon moral qualities that a society is ultimately founded. All
the prosperity and technological sophistication in the world is of no
use without that foundation.
-- Miss Matheson, The Diamond Age, Neil Stephenson


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas.
Lucky is he who has been able to understand the causes of things.
Virgil

"Noli sinere nothos te opprimere"

Dr. Don Latham, AJ7LL
Six Mile Systems LLC, 17850 Six Mile Road
Huson, MT, 59846
mailing address:  POBox 404
Frenchtown MT 59834-0404

VOX 406-626-4304
CEL 406-241-5093
Skype: buffler2
www.lightningforensics.com http://www.lightningforensics.com/
www.sixmilesystems.com http://www.sixmilesystems.com/

I do not see why a small pick and place assist system could not be built on a 3-d printer. Don > On Jun 24, 2016, at 8:32 AM, Attila Kinali <attila@kinali.ch> wrote: > > On Thu, 23 Jun 2016 20:16:34 -0500 > Oz-in-DFW <lists@ozindfw.net> wrote: > >> 1. Pick and place machines use a lot of floor space (even for the >> "small" ones are more than 1/2 a bench.) >> 2. Even the best ones require pretty continuous tuning. If you aren't >> using them continuously each new run is a new and different >> experience. Often unpleasant for the first few scrapped boards. > > The trick is to use semi-manual pick&place machines for low volumes. > Ie machines that you do not program, but guide by hand. This allows > faster and more accurate placing of components than would be possible > with a pure manual process, but does not have any of the complexity > of the fully automated solutions. The components do not need to be > 100% exactly centered, as the surface tension of the molten solder will > pull the parts into place (which is also the reason why the copper inside > the solder resist mask should be symmetric). > > These machines are still all pretty expensive (IMHO, the cheapest > start from around 2kusd IIRC), but with the continuous growth of the hobbyist > market, and that market becomming more and more professional/proficient, > the production volumes of these machines will for sure rise and thus become > cheaper. I am pretty sure that we will see hobbyist marketed pick&place systems > build upon open source based control systems in the next couple of years. > There are already a couple of DIY systems out there, that look quite good. > e.g http://vpapanik.blogspot.de/2012/11/low-budget-manual-pick-place.html > http://www.briandorey.com/post/Diy-Manual-Pick-and-Place-Machine-part-1 > > >> Solder stencils make **all** the difference. > > Oh, yes! Please, do not try syringe dispensers! These fail more often than > they work. Also pay the additional couple of bucks to get a steel stencil > instead of a kapton one. Especially if you make more than one or two boards > or those with fine pitch. > > Attila Kinali > > -- > It is upon moral qualities that a society is ultimately founded. All > the prosperity and technological sophistication in the world is of no > use without that foundation. > -- Miss Matheson, The Diamond Age, Neil Stephenson > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas. Lucky is he who has been able to understand the causes of things. Virgil ------------------------------- "Noli sinere nothos te opprimere" Dr. Don Latham, AJ7LL Six Mile Systems LLC, 17850 Six Mile Road Huson, MT, 59846 mailing address: POBox 404 Frenchtown MT 59834-0404 VOX 406-626-4304 CEL 406-241-5093 Skype: buffler2 www.lightningforensics.com <http://www.lightningforensics.com/> www.sixmilesystems.com <http://www.sixmilesystems.com/>