MS
Mark Spencer
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 4:11 PM
I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Right Tool for the Job.
I use barrel connectors when I want the cord to come out when the unit falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x /year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ / MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And 40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted, the
pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things it's
all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Locking barrel connectors...
Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life critical
application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white) are
glued together rather than using the roll pin.
Bob
On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert as
normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and sockets
I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
> On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Right Tool for the Job.
>
> I use barrel connectors when I _want_ the cord to come out when the unit falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
>
> Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
>
> We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x /year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ / MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And 40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
>
>
>
>
>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted, the
>> pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
>> aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
>>
>> I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things it's
>> all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Locking barrel connectors...
>>>
>>> Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
>>>
>>> In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life critical
>>> application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
>>> Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white) are
>>> glued together rather than using the roll pin.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert as
>>>> normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and sockets
>>> are
>
R(
Richard (Rick) Karlquist
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 4:25 PM
No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
which would not be idiot proof.
This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
If you never use batteries, then all the other
gendered connector schemes are fair game.
As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
Rick N6RK
No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
which would not be idiot proof.
This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
If you never use batteries, then all the other
gendered connector schemes are fair game.
As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
Rick N6RK
MD
Magnus Danielson
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 4:42 PM
Hi,
The ITT Cannon XLR range became known as Cannon-connector and
XLR-connector, with the later as the long term name. Often the 3-pole
XLR connector is being used, but many other exists, including different
sizes of pins and shells.
One should ba a bit careful to use the vendor name to identify a
connector type.
BTW, I agree with Rick's comment on power-pole and use on batteries.
This is the reason I use power-poles on my ham-equipment. It also allows
for combining adapters in interestinng ways.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 06/22/2017 06:11 PM, Mark Spencer wrote:
I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Right Tool for the Job.
I use barrel connectors when I want the cord to come out when the unit falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x /year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ / MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And 40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted, the
pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things it's
all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Locking barrel connectors...
Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life critical
application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white) are
glued together rather than using the roll pin.
Bob
On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert as
normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and sockets
Hi,
The ITT Cannon XLR range became known as Cannon-connector and
XLR-connector, with the later as the long term name. Often the 3-pole
XLR connector is being used, but many other exists, including different
sizes of pins and shells.
One should ba a bit careful to use the vendor name to identify a
connector type.
BTW, I agree with Rick's comment on power-pole and use on batteries.
This is the reason I use power-poles on my ham-equipment. It also allows
for combining adapters in interestinng ways.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 06/22/2017 06:11 PM, Mark Spencer wrote:
> I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
>
> Mark Spencer
>
> mark@alignedsolutions.com
>
>
>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Right Tool for the Job.
>>
>> I use barrel connectors when I _want_ the cord to come out when the unit falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
>>
>> Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
>>
>> We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x /year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ / MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And 40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted, the
>>> pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
>>> aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
>>>
>>> I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things it's
>>> all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Locking barrel connectors...
>>>>
>>>> Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
>>>>
>>>> In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life critical
>>>> application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
>>>> Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white) are
>>>> glued together rather than using the roll pin.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert as
>>>>> normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and sockets
>>>> are
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BB
Bob Bownes
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 4:43 PM
These are the ones we use:
AMP part # 206708-1
Standard Circular Connector PLUG 9 POSITION shell size 13
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:11 PM, Mark Spencer mark@alignedsolutions.com
wrote:
I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call
a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Right Tool for the Job.
I use barrel connectors when I want the cord to come out when the unit
falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the
unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x
/year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ /
MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And
40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted,
pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things
all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" bownes@gmail.com wrote:
Locking barrel connectors...
Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life
application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white)
glued together rather than using the roll pin.
Bob
On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:
It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert
normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and
These are the ones we use:
AMP part # 206708-1
Standard Circular Connector PLUG 9 POSITION shell size 13
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:11 PM, Mark Spencer <mark@alignedsolutions.com>
wrote:
> I believe the "AMP" connectors you are referring to are what I would call
> a "Cannon" connector. A good choice for that application IMHO.
>
> Mark Spencer
>
> mark@alignedsolutions.com
>
>
> > On Jun 22, 2017, at 6:47 AM, Bob Bownes <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Right Tool for the Job.
> >
> > I use barrel connectors when I _want_ the cord to come out when the unit
> falls off the shelf rather than dangle by the power cable.
> >
> > Locking Molex, or, far better, locking AMP connections when I want the
> unit to hang by the cord when necessary.
> >
> > We've gone to 9 pin circular locking AMP connectors for rotors on our 2x
> /year ham radio contest set up on the mountain (take a look for W2SZ /
> MGEF). Waterproof (not water tight), sturdy, impossible to misalign. And
> 40' of cable can hang from one for a few minutes if need be.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Jun 22, 2017, at 09:03, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Heh, I was thinking just that when I typed it. They're almost inverted,
> the
> >> pegs are on the plug and the slots are on the socket, the ones I've seen
> >> aren't spiral slots, you have to fully engage the plug before you twist.
> >>
> >> I like PowerPoles, I like barrel connections, as with so many things
> it's
> >> all about the application, choose the one that works for you.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 22 Jun 2017 1:53 pm, "Bob Bownes" <bownes@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Locking barrel connectors...
> >>>
> >>> Aren't those called BNCs? ;)
> >>>
> >>> In one of my other lives, I see Power Poles used in a very life
> critical
> >>> application. They are used to connect pads to Automatic External
> >>> Defibrillators. In that application, the two poles (15A, red & white)
> are
> >>> glued together rather than using the roll pin.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> >>>
> >>>> On Jun 22, 2017, at 08:29, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> It is possible to get hold of locking barrel connectors, they insert
> as
> >>>> normal and a quarter twist fastens them in place. The plugs and
> sockets
> >>> are
> >
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
CA
Chris Albertson
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 4:48 PM
One of the problems of power poles is they are expensive. Not a
problem if you only need a few of them. I've been buying DC
connectors by the bag full as I've working on some battery powered
mobile robots I robot does not need many but for every finish one
you've build maybe four breadboard systems and then you have the
battery charging systems and the cables that connect battery chargers
to power supplies. (LiPo battery charging is complex when you get into
18 volt 10 amp hour sizes.
Power poles are also rather bulky. OK if the equipment is stationary
but not good for something that flies or drives around where weight
and volume matter a lot.
I've standardized on XT60 type connectors These very compact and
rated for 60 amps continuous. Much easier to assemble and they cost
about 80 cents per mating pair. They are common in the electric
power drone industry as battery connectors
the XT60 is easy to use because they don't come apart. the metal pins
are permanently molded into the shell, you simply solder the wires on.
The shell is high temperate plastic and withstands even unskilled
soldering.
I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
the soot off.
I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak tvb@leapsecond.com wrote:
Wes, Don,
I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem: in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive, reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my 5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
/tvb
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
One of the problems of power poles is they are expensive. Not a
problem if you only need a few of them. I've been buying DC
connectors by the bag full as I've working on some battery powered
mobile robots I robot does not need many but for every finish one
you've build maybe four breadboard systems and then you have the
battery charging systems and the cables that connect battery chargers
to power supplies. (LiPo battery charging is complex when you get into
18 volt 10 amp hour sizes.
Power poles are also rather bulky. OK if the equipment is stationary
but not good for something that flies or drives around where weight
and volume matter a lot.
I've standardized on XT60 type connectors These very compact and
rated for 60 amps continuous. Much easier to assemble and they cost
about 80 cents per mating pair. They are common in the electric
power drone industry as battery connectors
the XT60 is easy to use because they don't come apart. the metal pins
are permanently molded into the shell, you simply solder the wires on.
The shell is high temperate plastic and withstands even unskilled
soldering.
I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
the soot off.
I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak <tvb@leapsecond.com> wrote:
> Wes, Don,
>
> I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem: in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive, reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my 5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
>
> What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
>
> /tvb
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
MS
Mark Spencer
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 5:04 PM
Good point and for hobby use (ie. Amateur radio, time nuts pursuits etc.) I can see this being a consideration.
That being said in my prior day jobs where we had various solar panel, battery, charge controller, AC powered charger, load combinations etc.. as far as I can recall I never encountered equipment that allowed for that specific use case via hermaphroditic connectors. It is still a good point however.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
604 762 4099
On Jun 22, 2017, at 9:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist richard@karlquist.com wrote:
No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
which would not be idiot proof.
This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
If you never use batteries, then all the other
gendered connector schemes are fair game.
As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
Rick N6RK
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Good point and for hobby use (ie. Amateur radio, time nuts pursuits etc.) I can see this being a consideration.
That being said in my prior day jobs where we had various solar panel, battery, charge controller, AC powered charger, load combinations etc.. as far as I can recall I never encountered equipment that allowed for that specific use case via hermaphroditic connectors. It is still a good point however.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
604 762 4099
> On Jun 22, 2017, at 9:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <richard@karlquist.com> wrote:
>
> No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
> I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
> matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
> is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
> system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
> power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
> the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
> to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
> a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
> would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
> which would not be idiot proof.
>
> This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
>
> If you never use batteries, then all the other
> gendered connector schemes are fair game.
>
> As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
> use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
>
> Rick N6RK
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BG
Brandon Graham
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 5:45 PM
Having followed Time nuts for a bit, I guess I'll finally chime in.
For the PPs, it's like all other things, knowing the goods and bads. I've
been using PPs for years, starting with RC Warship Combat (Battleships that
shoot and sink each other, so lots of interchangeable parts), and have seen
some of the other hobby connectors in use. The hermaphroditic nature of
PPs are useful because you don't have to follow a standard as you can see
the polarity. Tamiya connectors from RC to Ham radio had a different
standard of opposite polarity with the same gender, allowing them to be
connected and blow equipment. If you are using a lot of PPs (We've gone
through several hundred at this point) you don't create a mismatch of male
vs female connectors in your stock. The double edge is that you can
connect things that shouldn't be connected if you are not careful.
The silver plated PPs also hold up better in wet environments. PPs are
bulkier than some other hobby connectors, but for a connector that is
connected and disconnected frequently, the PPs work very well.
A safety factor the PPs have is that all contacts are covered. There is no
exposed metal that could lead to a short. They have a audible and tactile
click when they are connected. They can also be oriented in ways to
prevent plugging different voltages together. They can also be very useful
in making large "bus" connectors, but are horribly bulky if something
smaller would do.
I'm not always a fan of chassis PPs on equipment (K3), and a short pigtale
from the equipment or a captive connector like the Molex is preferred to
then go to PP's. A command strip or other attachment on the equipment with
the power cable held to prevent disconnecting alleviates unplugging it
however.
My experience.
Brandon
W0GPR (ex-KB3IGC)
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <
richard@karlquist.com> wrote:
No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
which would not be idiot proof.
This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
If you never use batteries, then all the other
gendered connector schemes are fair game.
As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
Rick N6RK
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Having followed Time nuts for a bit, I guess I'll finally chime in.
For the PPs, it's like all other things, knowing the goods and bads. I've
been using PPs for years, starting with RC Warship Combat (Battleships that
shoot and sink each other, so lots of interchangeable parts), and have seen
some of the other hobby connectors in use. The hermaphroditic nature of
PPs are useful because you don't have to follow a standard as you can see
the polarity. Tamiya connectors from RC to Ham radio had a different
standard of opposite polarity with the same gender, allowing them to be
connected and blow equipment. If you are using a lot of PPs (We've gone
through several hundred at this point) you don't create a mismatch of male
vs female connectors in your stock. The double edge is that you can
connect things that shouldn't be connected if you are not careful.
The silver plated PPs also hold up better in wet environments. PPs are
bulkier than some other hobby connectors, but for a connector that is
connected and disconnected frequently, the PPs work very well.
A safety factor the PPs have is that all contacts are covered. There is no
exposed metal that could lead to a short. They have a audible and tactile
click when they are connected. They can also be oriented in ways to
prevent plugging different voltages together. They can also be very useful
in making large "bus" connectors, but are horribly bulky if something
smaller would do.
I'm not always a fan of chassis PPs on equipment (K3), and a short pigtale
from the equipment or a captive connector like the Molex is preferred to
then go to PP's. A command strip or other attachment on the equipment with
the power cable held to prevent disconnecting alleviates unplugging it
however.
My experience.
Brandon
W0GPR (ex-KB3IGC)
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <
richard@karlquist.com> wrote:
> No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
> I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
> matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
> is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
> system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
> power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
> the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
> to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
> a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
> would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
> which would not be idiot proof.
>
> This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
>
> If you never use batteries, then all the other
> gendered connector schemes are fair game.
>
> As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
> use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
>
> Rick N6RK
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
> ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
B
Brent
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 6:15 PM
Never seen the XT60. Thanks for the heads up - looks promising - and cheap.
Brent
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:48 PM, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@gmail.com
One of the problems of power poles is they are expensive. Not a
problem if you only need a few of them. I've been buying DC
connectors by the bag full as I've working on some battery powered
mobile robots I robot does not need many but for every finish one
you've build maybe four breadboard systems and then you have the
battery charging systems and the cables that connect battery chargers
to power supplies. (LiPo battery charging is complex when you get into
18 volt 10 amp hour sizes.
Power poles are also rather bulky. OK if the equipment is stationary
but not good for something that flies or drives around where weight
and volume matter a lot.
I've standardized on XT60 type connectors These very compact and
rated for 60 amps continuous. Much easier to assemble and they cost
about 80 cents per mating pair. They are common in the electric
power drone industry as battery connectors
the XT60 is easy to use because they don't come apart. the metal pins
are permanently molded into the shell, you simply solder the wires on.
The shell is high temperate plastic and withstands even unskilled
soldering.
I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
the soot off.
I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak tvb@leapsecond.com wrote:
Wes, Don,
I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole
connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used
them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem:
in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive,
reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my
5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I
mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical
applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a
square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Never seen the XT60. Thanks for the heads up - looks promising - and cheap.
Brent
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:48 PM, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@gmail.com
> wrote:
> One of the problems of power poles is they are expensive. Not a
> problem if you only need a few of them. I've been buying DC
> connectors by the bag full as I've working on some battery powered
> mobile robots I robot does not need many but for every finish one
> you've build maybe four breadboard systems and then you have the
> battery charging systems and the cables that connect battery chargers
> to power supplies. (LiPo battery charging is complex when you get into
> 18 volt 10 amp hour sizes.
>
> Power poles are also rather bulky. OK if the equipment is stationary
> but not good for something that flies or drives around where weight
> and volume matter a lot.
>
> I've standardized on XT60 type connectors These very compact and
> rated for 60 amps continuous. Much easier to assemble and they cost
> about 80 cents per mating pair. They are common in the electric
> power drone industry as battery connectors
> the XT60 is easy to use because they don't come apart. the metal pins
> are permanently molded into the shell, you simply solder the wires on.
> The shell is high temperate plastic and withstands even unskilled
> soldering.
>
> I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
> as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
> a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
> of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
> vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
> chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
> XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
> shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
> the soot off.
>
> I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
> off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
> fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak <tvb@leapsecond.com> wrote:
> > Wes, Don,
> >
> > I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole
> connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used
> them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem:
> in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive,
> reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my
> 5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
> >
> > What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I
> mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical
> applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a
> square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
> >
> > /tvb
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
J
jimlux
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 7:04 PM
On 6/22/17 7:37 AM, Chris Caudle wrote:
On Thu, June 22, 2017 7:40 am, Mike Seguin wrote:
Neutrik make a variant specifically created for power connections instead
of speaker connections. I think they are essentially the same style
design but with different color coding to make them stand out from speaker
connections. I don't know if the contact plating may be different, or the
spacing different so it can handle higher voltages. Ground mates first
before the two power pins (three pin instead of the four pin Speakon). UL
listed for up to 250V AC.
http://www.neutrik.com/en/powercon-20a/
Most important, the power and speaker connectors are NOT intermateable.
The little tabs and notches are different.
In the movie biz, the 4 pin XLR is pretty standard for 12 and 24VDC
battery packs. It's been almost 20 years, so I don't remember the pinout.
The 3 pin XLR is a pretty good sized pin that can take a lot of current.
The 4 pin is smaller, and the 5 pin is really pretty small.
The XLR is nice and rugged (although not waterproof, it can be made so),
and it tolerates being driven over or stepped on, and it locks. The
chassis mount is fairly small (not much bigger than a Anderson PP with
chassis mount housing/bracketry)
On 6/22/17 7:37 AM, Chris Caudle wrote:
> On Thu, June 22, 2017 7:40 am, Mike Seguin wrote:
>> For anything critical, I use these connector from the professional sound
>> industry.
>> http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/
>
> Neutrik make a variant specifically created for power connections instead
> of speaker connections. I think they are essentially the same style
> design but with different color coding to make them stand out from speaker
> connections. I don't know if the contact plating may be different, or the
> spacing different so it can handle higher voltages. Ground mates first
> before the two power pins (three pin instead of the four pin Speakon). UL
> listed for up to 250V AC.
>
> http://www.neutrik.com/en/powercon-20a/
>
Most important, the power and speaker connectors are NOT intermateable.
The little tabs and notches are different.
In the movie biz, the 4 pin XLR is pretty standard for 12 and 24VDC
battery packs. It's been almost 20 years, so I don't remember the pinout.
The 3 pin XLR is a pretty good sized pin that can take a lot of current.
The 4 pin is smaller, and the 5 pin is really pretty small.
The XLR is nice and rugged (although not waterproof, it can be made so),
and it tolerates being driven over or stepped on, and it locks. The
chassis mount is fairly small (not much bigger than a Anderson PP with
chassis mount housing/bracketry)
JA
John Ackermann N8UR
Thu, Jun 22, 2017 7:09 PM
For what it's worth, I use PowerPoles extensively -- I use them for all
my 12V distribution on ham gear as well as time-nuts stuff. One great
advantage of the genderless design is that you can use extension cables,
breakout boxes, and other tools to solve lots of problems.
But they do lack as a chassis-mount connector. I was looking for
something inexpensive and reliable for 12V power on some rack enclosures
I was building, and came upon a series of connectors that I really
liked. They are Conxall/Switchcraft "Mini-Con-X" series, available in a
bunch of configurations from 2 to 8 or so pins. I use a 2-pin version
with solder-cup connectors that take up to 16 gauge wire. The chassis
version mounts in a 0.61 inch hole.
They're not throw-away cheap, but not unreasonable: the chassis
connector (Conxall/Switchcraft 7382-2PG-300, DigiKey SC2130-ND) is $4.32
quantity 1, and the matching in-line connector (Conxall/Switchcraft
6382-2SG-3DC, DigiKey SC1893-ND) is $7.06 quantity 1. I'm standardizing
on these for any 12V project that goes into a box. (If I do anything
with 24V, I'll probably use a 3 or 4 pin version to avoid mis-plugging
across the voltages.)
John
On 06/22/2017 01:45 PM, Brandon Graham wrote:
Having followed Time nuts for a bit, I guess I'll finally chime in.
For the PPs, it's like all other things, knowing the goods and bads. I've
been using PPs for years, starting with RC Warship Combat (Battleships that
shoot and sink each other, so lots of interchangeable parts), and have seen
some of the other hobby connectors in use. The hermaphroditic nature of
PPs are useful because you don't have to follow a standard as you can see
the polarity. Tamiya connectors from RC to Ham radio had a different
standard of opposite polarity with the same gender, allowing them to be
connected and blow equipment. If you are using a lot of PPs (We've gone
through several hundred at this point) you don't create a mismatch of male
vs female connectors in your stock. The double edge is that you can
connect things that shouldn't be connected if you are not careful.
The silver plated PPs also hold up better in wet environments. PPs are
bulkier than some other hobby connectors, but for a connector that is
connected and disconnected frequently, the PPs work very well.
A safety factor the PPs have is that all contacts are covered. There is no
exposed metal that could lead to a short. They have a audible and tactile
click when they are connected. They can also be oriented in ways to
prevent plugging different voltages together. They can also be very useful
in making large "bus" connectors, but are horribly bulky if something
smaller would do.
I'm not always a fan of chassis PPs on equipment (K3), and a short pigtale
from the equipment or a captive connector like the Molex is preferred to
then go to PP's. A command strip or other attachment on the equipment with
the power cable held to prevent disconnecting alleviates unplugging it
however.
My experience.
Brandon
W0GPR (ex-KB3IGC)
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <
richard@karlquist.com> wrote:
No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
which would not be idiot proof.
This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
If you never use batteries, then all the other
gendered connector schemes are fair game.
As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
Rick N6RK
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
For what it's worth, I use PowerPoles extensively -- I use them for all
my 12V distribution on ham gear as well as time-nuts stuff. One great
advantage of the genderless design is that you can use extension cables,
breakout boxes, and other tools to solve lots of problems.
But they do lack as a chassis-mount connector. I was looking for
something inexpensive and reliable for 12V power on some rack enclosures
I was building, and came upon a series of connectors that I really
liked. They are Conxall/Switchcraft "Mini-Con-X" series, available in a
bunch of configurations from 2 to 8 or so pins. I use a 2-pin version
with solder-cup connectors that take up to 16 gauge wire. The chassis
version mounts in a 0.61 inch hole.
They're not throw-away cheap, but not unreasonable: the chassis
connector (Conxall/Switchcraft 7382-2PG-300, DigiKey SC2130-ND) is $4.32
quantity 1, and the matching in-line connector (Conxall/Switchcraft
6382-2SG-3DC, DigiKey SC1893-ND) is $7.06 quantity 1. I'm standardizing
on these for any 12V project that goes into a box. (If I do anything
with 24V, I'll probably use a 3 or 4 pin version to avoid mis-plugging
across the voltages.)
John
----
On 06/22/2017 01:45 PM, Brandon Graham wrote:
> Having followed Time nuts for a bit, I guess I'll finally chime in.
>
> For the PPs, it's like all other things, knowing the goods and bads. I've
> been using PPs for years, starting with RC Warship Combat (Battleships that
> shoot and sink each other, so lots of interchangeable parts), and have seen
> some of the other hobby connectors in use. The hermaphroditic nature of
> PPs are useful because you don't have to follow a standard as you can see
> the polarity. Tamiya connectors from RC to Ham radio had a different
> standard of opposite polarity with the same gender, allowing them to be
> connected and blow equipment. If you are using a lot of PPs (We've gone
> through several hundred at this point) you don't create a mismatch of male
> vs female connectors in your stock. The double edge is that you can
> connect things that shouldn't be connected if you are not careful.
>
> The silver plated PPs also hold up better in wet environments. PPs are
> bulkier than some other hobby connectors, but for a connector that is
> connected and disconnected frequently, the PPs work very well.
>
> A safety factor the PPs have is that all contacts are covered. There is no
> exposed metal that could lead to a short. They have a audible and tactile
> click when they are connected. They can also be oriented in ways to
> prevent plugging different voltages together. They can also be very useful
> in making large "bus" connectors, but are horribly bulky if something
> smaller would do.
>
> I'm not always a fan of chassis PPs on equipment (K3), and a short pigtale
> from the equipment or a captive connector like the Molex is preferred to
> then go to PP's. A command strip or other attachment on the equipment with
> the power cable held to prevent disconnecting alleviates unplugging it
> however.
>
> My experience.
> Brandon
> W0GPR (ex-KB3IGC)
>
> On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:25 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <
> richard@karlquist.com> wrote:
>
>> No one has brought up the issue of hermaphrodicity, so
>> I will. Only PP's are hermaphroditic. Why does this
>> matter? It matters in the case of a battery. A battery
>> is both a power source and a power sink. In the PP
>> system, you can make a 3 way connection between a
>> power source, a power sink, and a battery, where
>> the battery float charges on the 12V bus it is connected
>> to. Non-hermaphroditic connector schemes do not allow
>> a 3 way connection. Attempting to do a work around
>> would require fabricating a special 3 way harness,
>> which would not be idiot proof.
>>
>> This is the fundamental reason for using PP's.
>>
>> If you never use batteries, then all the other
>> gendered connector schemes are fair game.
>>
>> As far as connectors pulling out is concerned:
>> use a cable clamp to strain relieve the connection.
>>
>> Rick N6RK
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
>> ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>