Charles Wenzel GPSDO
Get the "real ones" not the knock-off clones. Better plastic and
better precision molding. There are lots of cheap ones on eBay.
HobbyKing has the best prices for authentic, higher quality ones.
Still only 80 cents.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 11:15 AM, Brent brent.evers@gmail.com wrote:
Never seen the XT60. Thanks for the heads up - looks promising - and cheap.
Brent
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:48 PM, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@gmail.com
wrote:
One of the problems of power poles is they are expensive. Not a
problem if you only need a few of them. I've been buying DC
connectors by the bag full as I've working on some battery powered
mobile robots I robot does not need many but for every finish one
you've build maybe four breadboard systems and then you have the
battery charging systems and the cables that connect battery chargers
to power supplies. (LiPo battery charging is complex when you get into
18 volt 10 amp hour sizes.
Power poles are also rather bulky. OK if the equipment is stationary
but not good for something that flies or drives around where weight
and volume matter a lot.
I've standardized on XT60 type connectors These very compact and
rated for 60 amps continuous. Much easier to assemble and they cost
about 80 cents per mating pair. They are common in the electric
power drone industry as battery connectors
the XT60 is easy to use because they don't come apart. the metal pins
are permanently molded into the shell, you simply solder the wires on.
The shell is high temperate plastic and withstands even unskilled
soldering.
I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
the soot off.
I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak tvb@leapsecond.com wrote:
Wes, Don,
I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole
connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used
them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem:
in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive,
reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my
5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I
mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical
applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a
square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
/tvb
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--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
Hi:
The 45 Amp terminals come in two versions, one being " Hi Détente" p/n: 201G1H that is much stronger although I've never
had a pull apart problem.
--
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html
-------- Original Message --------
Wes, Don,
I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem: in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive, reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my 5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
/tvb
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Since I have met Charles in person a couple of times at his office in
Austin and used their microwave multiplied golden low phase noise
oscillators for a project and recommended Wenzel to others, I admit my
bias in favor of his projects.
I was going to comment earlier in this thread about the advantages of
Powerpole connectors and my bad experiences with old circular pin power
connectors from Molex and Amp, but decided to wait until the inevitable
storm of competing arguments blew over. I just finished wiring a
Powerpole connector to an Amplifier Research 144 MHz low noise preamp
tomorrow for use in Field Day this weekend for some satellite contacts
by a friend. He's also borrowing a big 100 AH 12V AGM battery from me,
so I added an inline fuseholder to a Powerpole standard ARES red/black
plug setup.
We should all remember that circuit protection, a proper fire
extinguisher, and safety goggles are important for fire and personal
(explosion) safety when initially connecting our new experimental
setups. Fuses or circuit breakers should always be used for connections
to batteries. Even small modern batteries can supply very high peak
currents, and in some cases you might not be there to handle the
emergency. My two personal stories are:
(1) A common 9V (NEDA1604 style) battery should never be left where it
might contact a metal short, and should never be left in a pocket. I
knew better, but temporarily slipped an alkaline 9V battery into a
trouser pocket, where it was shorted by my keys and became extremely hot
very rapidly. The peak current might reach 10 A (depending on the
battery chemistry and how it's shorted), so the battery heats up very
rapidly!
(2) When I was in high school (about 45 years ago) and still learning
how electrical and electronic stuff worked, I decided I needed to try
resistance soldering. This soldering technique was described in the
William Orr W6SAI Radio Handbook (unrelated to the ARRL Handbook). I
had some AWG 14 insulated wire and a surplus 2.5 V filament transformer
(rated for over 25 Amps, I'm sure). I found some old welding rods or
copper rods to apply the current to the joint being soldered. After
hooking it all up, I applied the rods to the joint and was surprised
when the copper wire used for my connections rapidly turned red hot and
fused, dropping molten copper onto the floor. I thought I understood
Ohm's Law and power dissipation in resistors, but obviously I didn't
have a practical understanding of the current handling capacity of the
wire. The wire acted as a fuse before the primary circuit fuse or mains
circuit breaker had a chance to trip.
Bill Byrom N5BB
----- Original message -----
From: Chris Albertson albertson.chris@gmail.com
...
I did something stupid last might and assembled power distribution not
as designed with a mosfet switch and diode in backwards then connected
a high power density battery. I had an open flame along an entire run
of #18 cable but finally the coper conductor failed (the metal
vaporized) and the circuit opened and the flame stopped. I have some
chared remains of wires and crunchy black melted plastic. But the
XT60 connectors are still good. The metal parts inside are still
shiny gold plated and the nylon shells are good as new, after cleaning
the soot off.
I was actually holding the connecter in my hand when the thing went
off like a bomb, but just minor burns. Still amazed the connecter is
fine after unsoldering the little stubs of burned wire from the pins.
On Thu, Jun 22, 2017 at 12:19 AM, Tom Van Baak tvb@leapsecond.com
wrote:
Wes, Don,
I am quite surprised at the negative reaction to Anderson Power Pole connectors. I have found them the best DC connector out there. I have used them for a decade or two for all my DC feeds and have never had a problem: in my home lab, my car, even for my laptop charger. They are inexpensive, reliable, genderless (hermaphroditic) and easy to crimp. I use them for my 5V, 12V, 24V, and 48V supplies as well as my DC backup systems.
What on earth are you doing with them that causes them to disconnect? I mean, they are not meant for towing or lifting or rappelling. For critical applications there is a plastic gizmo that keeps them mated; or just use a square or figure 8 knot on the cables.
/tvb
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--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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You are correct about 9V batteries. A 10A short is about 90 Watts. But
have you seen the specs on a LiPo Battery?
I have a 18 volt nominal 8,000 mAH LiPo battery that is rated "40C". This
battery is safe and within design limits to discharge at 40 x 8,000 mA.
Yes, taking 320 amps out of the battery is acceptable, the battery is
designed for that.
The battery can continuously supply 5.7 Kilowatts over 2 times more power
then can a standard AC mains wall outlet. Of course at that rate it runs
out of power in roughly one minute. But you can do a LOT in one minute.
When you short the leads you get a LOT more than 320 amps
A battery like that costs only about $50 today so they are available to
almost anyone who wants one.
(1) A common 9V (NEDA1604 style) battery should never be left where it
might contact a metal short, and should never be left in a pocket. I
knew better, but temporarily slipped an alkaline 9V battery into a
trouser pocket, where it was shorted by my keys and became extremely hot
very rapidly. The peak current might reach 10 A (depending on the
battery chemistry and how it's shorted), so the battery heats up very
rapidly!
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
Hi Chris:
Yes. Just looked on eBay and in under a minute found Item 231877388026.
11.1 V 6.6 AH with a label rate of 75C, but the eBay ad says 75C-150C. So it will produce between 495 and 990 Amps.
The stock connector is the EC5, which is needed for this kind of current. It's the connector used on the devices which
used to be advertised as car starters, but now are sold as battery chargers.
http://www.prc68.com/I/PowerBankJumpStarter.html#Photos
--
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html
-------- Original Message --------
18 volt nominal 8,000 mAH LiPo battery