Empathy List Archives

RL

Robert LaJeunesse

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 4:42 PM

Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part will also work as the heat spreader..

Bob LaJeunesse

Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM
From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" time-nuts@febo.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting at some stage.

Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time - allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the best, stress-wise.

Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part will also work as the heat spreader.. Bob LaJeunesse > Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM > From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" <time-nuts@febo.com> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning > > > Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting at some stage. > > Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time - allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the best, stress-wise.

CJ

Clint Jay

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 4:53 PM

Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to
lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and
allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and
it will come away easily.

Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part.

While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for
SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse.

On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" tvb@leapsecond.com wrote:

See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few
boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the
board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I
don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind.

Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to
buy?

Thanks,
/tvb

[0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes
[1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm

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Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and it will come away easily. Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part. While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse. On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com> wrote: > See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few > boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the > board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I > don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind. > > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the > very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse to > buy? > > Thanks, > /tvb > > [0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes > [1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

AG

Adrian Godwin

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 5:06 PM

SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to
deal with them and learning the best way to use them.

I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are
worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are
surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their deficiences
and buy better when you know what you really need.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay cjaysharp@gmail.com wrote:

Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to
lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and
allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and
it will come away easily.

Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part.

While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for
SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse.

On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" tvb@leapsecond.com wrote:

See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few
boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the
board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I
don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind.

Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse

to

buy?

Thanks,
/tvb

[0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes
[1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to deal with them and learning the best way to use them. I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their deficiences and buy better when you know what you really need. On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com> wrote: > Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to > lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and > allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and > it will come away easily. > > Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part. > > While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for > SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse. > > On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com> wrote: > > > See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few > > boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the > > board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I > > don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind. > > > > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the > > very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse > to > > buy? > > > > Thanks, > > /tvb > > > > [0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes > > [1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

SS

Scott Stobbe

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 5:24 PM

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.

I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip.

On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin artgodwin@gmail.com wrote:

SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to
deal with them and learning the best way to use them.

I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are
worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are
surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their deficiences
and buy better when you know what you really need.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com
javascript:;> wrote:

Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to
lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and
allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other

and

it will come away easily.

Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part.

While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for
SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse.

On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com javascript:;>

wrote:

See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a

few

boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the
board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I
don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind.

Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good

excuse

to

buy?

Thanks,
/tvb

[0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes
[1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com javascript:;
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a component. I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip. On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin <artgodwin@gmail.com> wrote: > SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to > deal with them and learning the best way to use them. > > I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are > worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are > surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their deficiences > and buy better when you know what you really need. > > On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com > <javascript:;>> wrote: > > > Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to > > lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and > > allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other > and > > it will come away easily. > > > > Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the part. > > > > While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for > > SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse. > > > > On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com <javascript:;>> > wrote: > > > > > See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a > few > > > boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the > > > board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I > > > don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind. > > > > > > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the > > > very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good > excuse > > to > > > buy? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > /tvb > > > > > > [0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes > > > [1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

AG

Adrian Godwin

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 5:35 PM

I agree - I find them totally useless for applying solder. I'd only use
them for removing parts. To solder them, clean the pads as described here
and solder one end at a time.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 5:24 PM, Scott Stobbe scott.j.stobbe@gmail.com
wrote:

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.

I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip.

On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin artgodwin@gmail.com wrote:

SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to
deal with them and learning the best way to use them.

I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are
worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are
surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their

deficiences

and buy better when you know what you really need.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com
javascript:;> wrote:

Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you

to

lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely

and

allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other

and

it will come away easily.

Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the

part.

While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for
SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse.

On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com

javascript:;>

wrote:

See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a

few

boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off

the

board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse --

but I

don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind.

Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to

the

very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good

excuse

to

buy?

Thanks,
/tvb

[0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes
[1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com javascript:;
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

I agree - I find them totally useless for applying solder. I'd only use them for removing parts. To solder them, clean the pads as described here and solder one end at a time. On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 5:24 PM, Scott Stobbe <scott.j.stobbe@gmail.com> wrote: > I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them > first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a > component. > > I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip. > > On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin <artgodwin@gmail.com> wrote: > > > SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to > > deal with them and learning the best way to use them. > > > > I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are > > worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are > > surprisingly useful at very low cost. Buy them to explore their > deficiences > > and buy better when you know what you really need. > > > > On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Clint Jay <cjaysharp@gmail.com > > <javascript:;>> wrote: > > > > > Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you > to > > > lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely > and > > > allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other > > and > > > it will come away easily. > > > > > > Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're good to replace the > part. > > > > > > While I'd like an excuse (and the funds) to buy a pair of tweezers for > > > SMD, I'd find it hard to use that job as an excuse. > > > > > > On 5 Nov 2016 19:12, "Tom Van Baak" <tvb@leapsecond.com > <javascript:;>> > > wrote: > > > > > > > See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a > > few > > > > boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off > the > > > > board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- > but I > > > > don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind. > > > > > > > > Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to > the > > > > very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good > > excuse > > > to > > > > buy? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > /tvb > > > > > > > > [0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes > > > > [1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

J

jimlux

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 6:17 PM

On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote:

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.

tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.

On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote: > I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them > first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a > component. tweezers to remove single iron to install use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.

AG

Adrian Godwin

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 6:47 PM

You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !

The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet.
There are probably others as good.

If you get some placing tweezers, make sure they're antimagnetic. Some
small parts (even resistors, that I wouldn't expect to contain steel) seem
to stick even to stainless steel. I've also heard bambooo tweezers are
good, but have never tried them.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 6:17 PM, jimlux jimlux@earthlink.net wrote:

On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote:

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.

tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps that's the same thing ! The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet. There are probably others as good. If you get some placing tweezers, make sure they're antimagnetic. Some small parts (even resistors, that I wouldn't expect to contain steel) seem to stick even to stainless steel. I've also heard bambooo tweezers are good, but have never tried them. On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 6:17 PM, jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net> wrote: > On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote: > >> I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them >> first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a >> component. >> > > tweezers to remove > single iron to install > use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end. > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m > ailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

WH

William H. Fite

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 6:51 PM

It's obvious you've never had a manicure, Adrian.
An orangewood stick is an instrument for torturing the cuticles.

Il faut soufrir pour etre belle!

On Sunday, November 6, 2016, Adrian Godwin artgodwin@gmail.com wrote:

You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !

The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet.
There are probably others as good.

If you get some placing tweezers, make sure they're antimagnetic. Some
small parts (even resistors, that I wouldn't expect to contain steel) seem
to stick even to stainless steel. I've also heard bambooo tweezers are
good, but have never tried them.

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 6:17 PM, jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net
javascript:;> wrote:

On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote:

I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.

tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com javascript:;
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com javascript:;
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
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and follow the instructions there.

--
If you gaze long into an abyss, your coffee will get cold.

It's obvious you've never had a manicure, Adrian. An orangewood stick is an instrument for torturing the cuticles. Il faut soufrir pour etre belle! On Sunday, November 6, 2016, Adrian Godwin <artgodwin@gmail.com> wrote: > You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure > what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps > that's the same thing ! > > The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet. > There are probably others as good. > > If you get some placing tweezers, make sure they're antimagnetic. Some > small parts (even resistors, that I wouldn't expect to contain steel) seem > to stick even to stainless steel. I've also heard bambooo tweezers are > good, but have never tried them. > > > On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 6:17 PM, jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net > <javascript:;>> wrote: > > > On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote: > > > >> I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them > >> first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a > >> component. > >> > > > > tweezers to remove > > single iron to install > > use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m > > ailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com <javascript:;> > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -- If you gaze long into an abyss, your coffee will get cold.

B_

Bryan _

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 8:42 PM

If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the very small components though.

-=Bryan=-

From: time-nuts time-nuts-bounces@febo.com on behalf of Robert LaJeunesse lajeunesse@mail.com
Sent: November 6, 2016 8:42 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part will also work as the heat spreader..

Bob LaJeunesse

Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM
From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" time-nuts@febo.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting at some stage.

Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time - allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the best, stress-wise.

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If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the very small components though. -=Bryan=- ________________________________ From: time-nuts <time-nuts-bounces@febo.com> on behalf of Robert LaJeunesse <lajeunesse@mail.com> Sent: November 6, 2016 8:42 AM To: time-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part will also work as the heat spreader.. Bob LaJeunesse > Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM > From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" <time-nuts@febo.com> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning > > > Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting at some stage. > > Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time - allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the best, stress-wise. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts time-nuts Info Page - American Febo Enterprises<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> www.febo.com time-nuts is a low volume, high SNR list for the discussion of precise time and frequency measurement and related topics. To see the collection of prior postings to ... and follow the instructions there.

NJ

Nathan Johnson

Sun, Nov 6, 2016 8:50 PM

I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips,
and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a
set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those)
Nathan KK4REY

via Newton Mail
[https://cloudmagic.com/k/d/mailapp?ct=pi&cv=9.2.5&pv=10.1&source=email_footer_2]
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 14:42, Bryan _ bpl521@outlook.com wrote:
If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying
a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead,
and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works
on the very small components though.

-=Bryan=-

From: time-nuts time-nuts-bounces@febo.com on behalf of Robert
LaJeunesse lajeunesse@mail.com
Sent: November 6, 2016 8:42 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat
spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over
the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the
center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off
with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part
will also work as the heat spreader..

Bob LaJeunesse

Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM
From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" time-nuts@febo.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"

time-nuts@febo.com

Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning

Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't

recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with
sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart.
That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible
pad lifting at some stage.

Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time -

allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the
best, stress-wise.

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time-nuts is a low volume, high SNR list for the discussion of precise time
and frequency measurement and related topics. To see the collection of
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I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips, and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those) Nathan KK4REY via Newton Mail [https://cloudmagic.com/k/d/mailapp?ct=pi&cv=9.2.5&pv=10.1&source=email_footer_2] On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 14:42, Bryan _ <bpl521@outlook.com> wrote: If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the very small components though. -=Bryan=- ________________________________ From: time-nuts <time-nuts-bounces@febo.com> on behalf of Robert LaJeunesse <lajeunesse@mail.com> Sent: November 6, 2016 8:42 AM To: time-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center, add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination off with tweezers. Sometimes a heavy enough copper wire bent around the part will also work as the heat spreader.. Bob LaJeunesse > Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 at 9:05 PM > From: "Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts" <time-nuts@febo.com> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning > > > Yes. Unless you're grinding it away with a dremel (which I wouldn't recommend as far as chemical dust is concerned), nibbling away with sidecutters would be trying to force the 2 ends of the component apart. That may be stressing the pads they're soldered to, leading to a possible pad lifting at some stage. > > Any of the methods mentioned that heat both ends at the same time - allowing the component to be wiped off the board - would have to be the best, stress-wise. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts time-nuts Info Page - American Febo Enterprises<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> www.febo.com time-nuts is a low volume, high SNR list for the discussion of precise time and frequency measurement and related topics. To see the collection of prior postings to ... and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.

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I love the smell of tantalum in the morning