Hi again,
The cable impedance measurement was in a different video (linked below) but
it can use the same HC14 TDR as in the first video. The concept is to just
put a pot on the end of the cable and adjust it until the reflection goes
away. Simple!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il_eju4D_TM
--Jim Stone
Hi Bob,
Take a look at this nice simple little one chip "TDR" and lesson on how to
use it to measure cable length and cable impedance. It uses a single AC14
(can use a DIP so no SMD needed) and gives a nice crisp 2 or 3 ns rise. The
AC family is nice fast logic and has been used in many Time-Nuts
application like cheap zero-cross detectors using the AC04.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cP6w2odGUc
Regards --Jim Stone
Bob Albert wrote:
Well I got my adapter boards from China and managed to build my first SMT
project, a square wave generator for TDR use. And it works! The IC seems
to run hot so I used my IR temperature measurement device and it checks out
at about 37C, acceptable. I can now drive a square wave at about 3 kHz
into 50 Ohms. The rise time isn't very short but I must have not used the
best part for the generator. Still, I can do some TDR experimenting as
long as the line isn't too short.
Thanks to all for the ideas and encouragement. I didn't use a microscope,
mostly just a magnifier. My tiniest soldering iron is a bit large but it
did the job.
Bob
Jim, that's the exact one I built! I rechecked and the rise time is about 2 ns, not longer as I previously reported. Not only do I have a new piece of test gear but I have gotten some SMT experience. Previously I have removed chips but this is the first time I have installed one. I didn't use the liquid solder because I didn't have any and it doesn't keep very long. I used ordinary solder with a small iron and it worked well, although I didn't have as much control as I wished.
I also have a SNA that can be used for some of the same measurements but this thing is simple. I checked both with my digital HP scope and my analog Tek and got the same result.
I checked a three foot piece of coax, both open at the far end and shorted there, and got the textbook waveforms. I love it when the basics check out.
Bob
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:00 PM, Jim Stone <tictocnut@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi again,
The cable impedance measurement was in a different video (linked below) but
it can use the same HC14 TDR as in the first video. The concept is to just
put a pot on the end of the cable and adjust it until the reflection goes
away. Simple!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il_eju4D_TM
--Jim Stone
Hi Bob,
Take a look at this nice simple little one chip "TDR" and lesson on how to
use it to measure cable length and cable impedance. It uses a single AC14
(can use a DIP so no SMD needed) and gives a nice crisp 2 or 3 ns rise. The
AC family is nice fast logic and has been used in many Time-Nuts
application like cheap zero-cross detectors using the AC04.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cP6w2odGUc
Regards --Jim Stone
Bob Albert wrote:
Well I got my adapter boards from China and managed to build my first SMT
project, a square wave generator for TDR use. And it works! The IC seems
to run hot so I used my IR temperature measurement device and it checks out
at about 37C, acceptable. I can now drive a square wave at about 3 kHz
into 50 Ohms. The rise time isn't very short but I must have not used the
best part for the generator. Still, I can do some TDR experimenting as
long as the line isn't too short.
Thanks to all for the ideas and encouragement. I didn't use a microscope,
mostly just a magnifier. My tiniest soldering iron is a bit large but it
did the job.
Bob
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On 18 August 2016 at 07:07, Bob Albert via time-nuts time-nuts@febo.com wrote:
I didn't use the liquid solder because I didn't have any and it doesn't keep very long.
That's not really the case. It may change consistency so that it
behaves a little differently and fouls up automated stencilling
machines (which are the most finicky devices on the planet), but with
a human in the loop, you can expect most of a decade unless you let
it dry out or do something daft.
I'm still happily using stuff with a 2007 expiry code, in (big)
plastic syringes. Still behaves fine. (and the benefit of the
stirred-in flux and excellent wetting does make paste a joy to use
compared to even good solder wire).
'Expired' solder paste can be a bargain.
Steve
Ah Steve, that's good info! Now where does one buy expired solder paste? And what's the proper name for it - solder paste searches mostly come up with just flux.
Bob
On Thursday, August 18, 2016 2:25 AM, Steve Wiseman <sjwiseman@gmail.com> wrote:
On 18 August 2016 at 07:07, Bob Albert via time-nuts time-nuts@febo.com wrote:
I didn't use the liquid solder because I didn't have any and it doesn't keep very long.
That's not really the case. It may change consistency so that it
behaves a little differently and fouls up automated stencilling
machines (which are the most finicky devices on the planet), but with
a human in the loop, you can expect most of a decade unless you let
it dry out or do something daft.
I'm still happily using stuff with a 2007 expiry code, in (big)
plastic syringes. Still behaves fine. (and the benefit of the
stirred-in flux and excellent wetting does make paste a joy to use
compared to even good solder wire).
'Expired' solder paste can be a bargain.
Steve
I have had similar experience with well expired paste.
I just don't worry about it.
The issue is the solder is ground to such a fine powder that
it has a huge surface area to oxidize. As long as you keep
the air off, and refrigerate the paste, it seems to go forever.
Oh, and I only use tin/lead paste, not the RoHS stuff.
-Chuck Harris
Steve Wiseman wrote:
On 18 August 2016 at 07:07, Bob Albert via time-nuts time-nuts@febo.com wrote:
I didn't use the liquid solder because I didn't have any and it doesn't keep very long.
That's not really the case. It may change consistency so that it
behaves a little differently and fouls up automated stencilling
machines (which are the most finicky devices on the planet), but with
a human in the loop, you can expect most of a decade unless you let
it dry out or do something daft.
I'm still happily using stuff with a 2007 expiry code, in (big)
plastic syringes. Still behaves fine. (and the benefit of the
stirred-in flux and excellent wetting does make paste a joy to use
compared to even good solder wire).
'Expired' solder paste can be a bargain.
Steve
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To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
So where do you get this expired paste? I have tried a few searches but no luck.
Bob
On Thursday, August 18, 2016 12:00 PM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote:
I have had similar experience with well expired paste.
I just don't worry about it.
The issue is the solder is ground to such a fine powder that
it has a huge surface area to oxidize. As long as you keep
the air off, and refrigerate the paste, it seems to go forever.
Oh, and I only use tin/lead paste, not the RoHS stuff.
-Chuck Harris
Steve Wiseman wrote:
On 18 August 2016 at 07:07, Bob Albert via time-nuts time-nuts@febo.com wrote:
I didn't use the liquid solder because I didn't have any and it doesn't keep very long.
That's not really the case. It may change consistency so that it
behaves a little differently and fouls up automated stencilling
machines (which are the most finicky devices on the planet), but with
a human in the loop, you can expect most of a decade unless you let
it dry out or do something daft.
I'm still happily using stuff with a 2007 expiry code, in (big)
plastic syringes. Still behaves fine. (and the benefit of the
stirred-in flux and excellent wetting does make paste a joy to use
compared to even good solder wire).
'Expired' solder paste can be a bargain.
Steve
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.
Uhmmm, I buy it new, and expire it myself... blush.
-Chuck Harris
Bob Albert via time-nuts wrote:
So where do you get this expired paste? I have tried a few searches but no luck.
Bob