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Keithley 2001 - do you need to open it to calibrate it?

DD
Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd)
Sun, Jun 26, 2016 7:12 PM

I got the 2001 that I ordered yesterday. There are a few things that make
me feel uneasy about it, so I will probably return it.

The calibration seal is missing off the front, which is obvious from the
eBay photo, but also one at the bottom which looks as though one needs to
open in order to get inside the unit. That had a seal, but has been broken.
I'm wondering if that would be a normal part of the calibration routine, or
if someone has opened this up after it was calibrated.

The cal was due "Jan/12/10", which I assume means the 12th of January 2010.

Also, although when I see the pictures on eBay I never noticed it, a closer
inspection of the photos .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEITHLEY-2001-DMM-/152113460174

does show that the hole on the front where a calibration seal would be
placed, has at one time in the past had a device too large pushed into the
hole. The hole is no longer round as I would expect it to be.

I got the 2001 that I ordered yesterday. There are a few things that make me feel uneasy about it, so I will probably return it. The calibration seal is missing off the front, which is obvious from the eBay photo, but also one at the bottom which looks as though one needs to open in order to get inside the unit. That had a seal, but has been broken. I'm wondering if that would be a normal part of the calibration routine, or if someone has opened this up after it was calibrated. The cal was due "Jan/12/10", which I assume means the 12th of January 2010. Also, although when I see the pictures on eBay I never noticed it, a closer inspection of the photos . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEITHLEY-2001-DMM-/152113460174 does show that the hole on the front where a calibration seal would be placed, has at one time in the past had a device too large pushed into the hole. The hole is no longer round as I would expect it to be.
TM
Todd Micallef
Sun, Jun 26, 2016 7:46 PM

David,

I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
mean the item is calibrated.

If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There
are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if
the meter is measuring close to others.

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

I got the 2001 that I ordered yesterday. There are a few things that make
me feel uneasy about it, so I will probably return it.

The calibration seal is missing off the front, which is obvious from the
eBay photo, but also one at the bottom which looks as though one needs to
open in order to get inside the unit. That had a seal, but has been broken.
I'm wondering if that would be a normal part of the calibration routine, or
if someone has opened this up after it was calibrated.

The cal was due "Jan/12/10", which I assume means the 12th of January 2010.

Also, although when I see the pictures on eBay I never noticed it, a closer
inspection of the photos .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEITHLEY-2001-DMM-/152113460174

does show that the hole on the front where a calibration seal would be
placed, has at one time in the past had a device too large pushed into the
hole. The hole is no longer round as I would expect it to be.


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David, I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not mean the item is calibrated. If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if the meter is measuring close to others. On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) < drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote: > I got the 2001 that I ordered yesterday. There are a few things that make > me feel uneasy about it, so I will probably return it. > > The calibration seal is missing off the front, which is obvious from the > eBay photo, but also one at the bottom which looks as though one needs to > open in order to get inside the unit. That had a seal, but has been broken. > I'm wondering if that would be a normal part of the calibration routine, or > if someone has opened this up after it was calibrated. > > The cal was due "Jan/12/10", which I assume means the 12th of January 2010. > > Also, although when I see the pictures on eBay I never noticed it, a closer > inspection of the photos . > > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEITHLEY-2001-DMM-/152113460174 > > does show that the hole on the front where a calibration seal would be > placed, has at one time in the past had a device too large pushed into the > hole. The hole is no longer round as I would expect it to be. > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
DD
Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd)
Sun, Jun 26, 2016 9:29 PM

On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef tmicallef@gmail.com wrote:

David,

I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
mean the item is calibrated.

The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which
covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so
the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the
case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front
panel, probably removing that sticker on the front.

There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear
to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make
several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it
appears to function.

I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads
connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd
given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on
voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on
current for the meter to read very close to zero.

If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going
as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that
makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be
expected unless one increases the integration time.

But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A
rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared.
The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return
this.

If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There
are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if
the meter is measuring close to others.

Thanks, I will take a look.

My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I
need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer
to have a controller card in.

Dave

On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef <tmicallef@gmail.com> wrote: > David, > > I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or > tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not > mean the item is calibrated. > The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front panel, probably removing that sticker on the front. There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it appears to function. I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on current for the meter to read very close to zero. If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be expected unless one increases the integration time. But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared. The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return this. > > If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There > are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if > the meter is measuring close to others. > Thanks, I will take a look. My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer to have a controller card in. Dave
TM
Todd Micallef
Sun, Jun 26, 2016 9:44 PM

You can run the self-tests to confirm the seller was telling the truth.
Smells are probably bad caps, and if you don't feel like dealing with a
recap, returning it would be best.

The keypad is held in place using two plastic strips. If one has broken or
fallen off, then you would see the keys push away from the panel. They are
easy to fix and are sometimes glued in place.

I am guessing it was opened and promptly put up for sale. I have repaired a
couple and they are great meters, but I am hesitant to go down that road
again. You never know how damaged they could be until you strip it down.

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 5:29 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef tmicallef@gmail.com wrote:

David,

I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
mean the item is calibrated.

The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which
covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so
the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the
case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front
panel, probably removing that sticker on the front.

There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear
to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make
several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it
appears to function.

I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads
connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd
given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on
voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on
current for the meter to read very close to zero.

If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going
as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that
makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be
expected unless one increases the integration time.

But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A
rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared.
The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return
this.

If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests.

There

are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see

if

the meter is measuring close to others.

Thanks, I will take a look.

My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I
need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer
to have a controller card in.

Dave


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

You can run the self-tests to confirm the seller was telling the truth. Smells are probably bad caps, and if you don't feel like dealing with a recap, returning it would be best. The keypad is held in place using two plastic strips. If one has broken or fallen off, then you would see the keys push away from the panel. They are easy to fix and are sometimes glued in place. I am guessing it was opened and promptly put up for sale. I have repaired a couple and they are great meters, but I am hesitant to go down that road again. You never know how damaged they could be until you strip it down. On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 5:29 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) < drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote: > On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef <tmicallef@gmail.com> wrote: > > > David, > > > > I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or > > tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not > > mean the item is calibrated. > > > > The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which > covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so > the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the > case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front > panel, probably removing that sticker on the front. > > There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear > to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make > several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it > appears to function. > > I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads > connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd > given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on > voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on > current for the meter to read very close to zero. > > If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going > as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that > makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be > expected unless one increases the integration time. > > But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A > rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared. > The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return > this. > > > > > > If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. > There > > are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see > if > > the meter is measuring close to others. > > > > Thanks, I will take a look. > > My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I > need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer > to have a controller card in. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
TK
Tom Knox
Mon, Jun 27, 2016 3:36 AM

Hi All;

One thing to check for 0n the 2001 is leakage on the electrolytic caps. Especially the early ones (Identifiable by the finer mesh fan filter) commonly have this problem and if unattended the oil eats the traces making repair a real nightmare.

Cheers;

Thomas Knox


From: volt-nuts volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com on behalf of Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2016 3:29 PM
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2001 - do you need to open it to calibrate it?

On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef tmicallef@gmail.com wrote:

David,

I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
mean the item is calibrated.

The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which
covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so
the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the
case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front
panel, probably removing that sticker on the front.

There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear
to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make
several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it
appears to function.

I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads
connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd
given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on
voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on
current for the meter to read very close to zero.

If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going
as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that
makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be
expected unless one increases the integration time.

But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A
rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared.
The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return
this.

If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There
are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if

xDevs.com | DMM noise measurement test projecthttps://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/
xdevs.com
Test project of bench DMM noise levels evaluation, using DCV ranges and various NPLC settings.

the meter is measuring close to others.

Thanks, I will take a look.

My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I
need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer
to have a controller card in.

Dave


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi All; One thing to check for 0n the 2001 is leakage on the electrolytic caps. Especially the early ones (Identifiable by the finer mesh fan filter) commonly have this problem and if unattended the oil eats the traces making repair a real nightmare. Cheers; Thomas Knox ________________________________ From: volt-nuts <volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com> on behalf of Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <drkirkby@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2016 3:29 PM To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2001 - do you need to open it to calibrate it? On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef <tmicallef@gmail.com> wrote: > David, > > I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or > tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not > mean the item is calibrated. > The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front panel, probably removing that sticker on the front. There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it appears to function. I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on current for the meter to read very close to zero. If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be expected unless one increases the integration time. But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared. The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return this. > > If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There > are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if xDevs.com | DMM noise measurement test project<https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/> xdevs.com Test project of bench DMM noise levels evaluation, using DCV ranges and various NPLC settings. > the meter is measuring close to others. > Thanks, I will take a look. My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer to have a controller card in. Dave _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.