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Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

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Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but..

VH
Van Horn, David
Thu, Dec 8, 2016 4:39 PM

Yes, I hit one of those. I forget the frequency other than around 1 MHz, but it was pretty warm when it shouldn't have been, and it was several volts amplitude.

This thing I'm chasing is much more subtle.

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 1:57 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but..

I don't think so.  I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long before counterfeiting was even remotely possible.

The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V.

LM309's were, however, totally immune.

Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things like using clip leads between the power supply and load with the LM340-5 dangling in between.

The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps soldered right at the input and ground, and the output and ground pins.

LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to oscillation.  They need to have a couple of hundred uf of good quality capacitance right on the input and output leads.  Where people usually get in trouble, is in not knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C.

The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out hanging on a light pole...

-Chuck Harris

Joe Leikhim wrote:

Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such?

Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of
voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of?

Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider
to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good
potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise".

Is something corrupting your test procedure?  I had a circuit that
misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity
on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive.


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Yes, I hit one of those. I forget the frequency other than around 1 MHz, but it was pretty warm when it shouldn't have been, and it was several volts amplitude. This thing I'm chasing is much more subtle. -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 1:57 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but.. I don't think so. I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long before counterfeiting was even remotely possible. The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V. LM309's were, however, totally immune. Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things like using clip leads between the power supply and load with the LM340-5 dangling in between. The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps soldered right at the input and ground, and the output and ground pins. LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to oscillation. They need to have a couple of hundred uf of good quality capacitance right on the input and output leads. Where people usually get in trouble, is in not knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C. The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out hanging on a light pole... -Chuck Harris Joe Leikhim wrote: > Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such? > > Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of > voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of? > > Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider > to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good > potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise". > > Is something corrupting your test procedure? I had a circuit that > misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity > on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive. > > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DG
David G. McGaw
Thu, Dec 8, 2016 6:30 PM

One has to be very careful with LDOs.  As we say in applications,
RTFDS.  :-)  The output capacitor often needs a finite ESR (effective
series resistance).  A too-large ceramic cap WILL make them oscillate.
I have noticed that they are used in some GPSDOs.

David

On 12/8/16 11:39 AM, Van Horn, David wrote:

Yes, I hit one of those. I forget the frequency other than around 1 MHz, but it was pretty warm when it shouldn't have been, and it was several volts amplitude.

This thing I'm chasing is much more subtle.

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 1:57 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but..

I don't think so.  I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long before counterfeiting was even remotely possible.

The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V.

LM309's were, however, totally immune.

Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things like using clip leads between the power supply and load with the LM340-5 dangling in between.

The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps soldered right at the input and ground, and the output and ground pins.

LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to oscillation.  They need to have a couple of hundred uf of good quality capacitance right on the input and output leads.  Where people usually get in trouble, is in not knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C.

The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out hanging on a light pole...

-Chuck Harris

Joe Leikhim wrote:

Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such?

Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of
voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of?

Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider
to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good
potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise".

Is something corrupting your test procedure?  I had a circuit that
misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity
on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive.


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To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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One has to be very careful with LDOs. As we say in applications, RTFDS. :-) The output capacitor often needs a finite ESR (effective series resistance). A too-large ceramic cap WILL make them oscillate. I have noticed that they are used in some GPSDOs. David On 12/8/16 11:39 AM, Van Horn, David wrote: > Yes, I hit one of those. I forget the frequency other than around 1 MHz, but it was pretty warm when it shouldn't have been, and it was several volts amplitude. > > This thing I'm chasing is much more subtle. > > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris > Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 1:57 PM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but.. > > I don't think so. I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long before counterfeiting was even remotely possible. > > The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V. > > LM309's were, however, totally immune. > > Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things like using clip leads between the power supply and load with the LM340-5 dangling in between. > > The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps soldered right at the input and ground, and the output and ground pins. > > LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to oscillation. They need to have a couple of hundred uf of good quality capacitance right on the input and output leads. Where people usually get in trouble, is in not knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C. > > The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out hanging on a light pole... > > -Chuck Harris > > Joe Leikhim wrote: >> Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such? >> >> Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of >> voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of? >> >> Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider >> to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good >> potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise". >> >> Is something corrupting your test procedure? I had a circuit that >> misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity >> on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive. >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Thu, Dec 8, 2016 9:12 PM

In message <CY1PR04MB2347AE1EF637565B5B4D0C2FE0840@CY1PR04MB2347.namprd04.prod.
outlook.com>, "Van Horn, David" writes:

I did check the circuit through the whole range that it should
operate in, based on component data sheets. No issues.

How long are the wires supplying the regulator ?

The LC of the wires inductance and the shunt capacitor over the
regulators input has a resonance frequency...

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

-------- In message <CY1PR04MB2347AE1EF637565B5B4D0C2FE0840@CY1PR04MB2347.namprd04.prod. outlook.com>, "Van Horn, David" writes: >I did check the circuit through the whole range that it should >operate in, based on component data sheets. No issues. How long are the wires supplying the regulator ? The LC of the wires inductance and the shunt capacitor over the regulators input has a resonance frequency... -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
BC
Bob Camp
Thu, Dec 8, 2016 9:58 PM

HI

Ok, so to fully evaluate the problem, you will need to de-encapsulate the parts. That is the next step
in this adventure. First pass would be to pull the plastic off of a couple of bad ones and get some pictures
of the die. After that, trace them back and see if they are Brand A or Brand B. Next, do the same for a good
one (or two) and see if the die trace to the same manufacturer.

Next after the die are traced down would be probing with something like a Cascade probe system. You can
get them that are alleged to be good into the > 20 GHz range. Team that up with some low noise test gear
and you will be able to rule in / rule out the regulator it’s self. Yes this is a bit expensive. If you want to troubleshoot
the issue, it is the next step.

It’s a whole lot easier to swap out the regulator for a different one and just move on.

Bob

On Dec 8, 2016, at 11:37 AM, Van Horn, David david.vanhorn@backcountryaccess.com wrote:

I did check the circuit through the whole range that it should operate in, based on component data sheets. No issues.
I also carefully varied the voltage right around where the regulator output is, to see if there was some very narrow band of sensitivity.
Nothing.

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Joe Leikhim
Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 12:31 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but..

Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such?

Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of?

Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise".

Is something corrupting your test procedure?  I had a circuit that misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive.

--
Joe Leikhim

Leikhim and Associates

Communications Consultants

Oviedo, Florida

JLeikhim@Leikhim.com

407-982-0446

WWW.LEIKHIM.COM


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

HI Ok, so to fully evaluate the problem, you will need to de-encapsulate the parts. That *is* the next step in this adventure. First pass would be to pull the plastic off of a couple of bad ones and get some pictures of the die. After that, trace them back and see if they are Brand A or Brand B. Next, do the same for a good one (or two) and see if the die trace to the same manufacturer. Next after the die are traced down would be probing with something like a Cascade probe system. You can get them that are alleged to be good into the > 20 GHz range. Team that up with some low noise test gear and you will be able to rule in / rule out the regulator it’s self. Yes this is a bit expensive. If you want to troubleshoot the issue, it is the next step. It’s a whole lot easier to swap out the regulator for a different one and just move on. Bob > On Dec 8, 2016, at 11:37 AM, Van Horn, David <david.vanhorn@backcountryaccess.com> wrote: > > I did check the circuit through the whole range that it should operate in, based on component data sheets. No issues. > I also carefully varied the voltage right around where the regulator output is, to see if there was some very narrow band of sensitivity. > Nothing. > > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Joe Leikhim > Sent: Wednesday, December 7, 2016 12:31 PM > To: time-nuts@febo.com > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Totally unrelated, but.. > > Could the low noise parts actually be counterfeit, relabeled as such? > > Is the circuit the regulator feeds sensitive to a narrow band of voltage that the "good regulator" is outside of? > > Try replacing the regulator with a battery supply and resistor divider to attain the working voltage. Move the voltage around. A good potentiometer and stiff filter capacitors are recommended so as not to introduce "pot noise". > > Is something corrupting your test procedure? I had a circuit that misbehaved due to floating logic pins reacting to static electricity on the work bench. Another time a diode was photosensitive. > > > > -- > Joe Leikhim > > > Leikhim and Associates > > Communications Consultants > > Oviedo, Florida > > JLeikhim@Leikhim.com > > 407-982-0446 > > WWW.LEIKHIM.COM > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
D
David
Thu, Dec 8, 2016 11:52 PM

I am pretty sure that I ran across this once as well with the
7800/LM340 series in the early 1980s with parts from a major
manufacturer like Motorola, National, or Texas Instruments; the
regulators ran hot and the output voltages were slightly low no matter
what decoupling arrangements were made at the input and output.  The
stability was poor as if the parts were oscillating but no oscillation
was apparent.

There is some discussion here about different designs for these
regulators although the photographs are broken:

http://www.righto.com/2014/09/reverse-engineering-counterfeit-7805.html

On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 15:56:55 -0500, you wrote:

I don't think so.  I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's
that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long
before counterfeiting was even remotely possible.

The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V.

LM309's were, however, totally immune.

Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things
like using clip leads between the power supply and load
with the LM340-5 dangling in between.

The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps
soldered right at the input and ground, and the output
and ground pins.

LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to
oscillation.  They need to have a couple of hundred uf
of good quality capacitance right on the input and output
leads.  Where people usually get in trouble, is in not
knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their
capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C.

The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out
hanging on a light pole...

-Chuck Harris

I am pretty sure that I ran across this once as well with the 7800/LM340 series in the early 1980s with parts from a major manufacturer like Motorola, National, or Texas Instruments; the regulators ran hot and the output voltages were slightly low no matter what decoupling arrangements were made at the input and output. The stability was poor as if the parts were oscillating but no oscillation was apparent. There is some discussion here about different designs for these regulators although the photographs are broken: http://www.righto.com/2014/09/reverse-engineering-counterfeit-7805.html On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 15:56:55 -0500, you wrote: >I don't think so. I first ran into a batch of LM340-5's >that were excellent oscillators back in the 1970's... long >before counterfeiting was even remotely possible. > >The symptom is the regulator puts out only 4.5 out of 5V. > >LM309's were, however, totally immune. > >Usually, I had to be really bad to make it happen, things >like using clip leads between the power supply and load >with the LM340-5 dangling in between. > >The answer is as simple as a couple of 0.1uf ceramic caps >soldered right at the input and ground, and the output >and ground pins. > >LDO (low dropout) regulators are very susceptible to >oscillation. They need to have a couple of hundred uf >of good quality capacitance right on the input and output >leads. Where people usually get in trouble, is in not >knowing that electrolytic capacitors lose most of their >capacitance as the temperature starts hovering around 0C. > >The circuit works great on the bench, but fails when out >hanging on a light pole... > >-Chuck Harris