To improve the accuracy, I would integrate several measurements. There
is no reason a sampled measurement at only one time needs to be made.
On Fri, 30 Dec 2016 09:18:17 -0800, you wrote:
Hi Anders:
That's something I've thought about for decades using an optical system. A few years ago I looked at it again and
found that astronomical "seeing" limits the accuracy. So the accuracy achieved by a spaceborne "Stellar compass" will
be much better than a ground based observation. A radio based observation might work since the atmosphere would not be
a factor.
http://www.prc68.com/I/StellarTime.shtml
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 2:42 AM, Attila Kinali attila@kinali.ch wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2016 10:59:03 +0200
Anders Wallin anders.e.e.wallin@gmail.com wrote:
out of curiosity, are there any amateur/semi-pro experiments that can
measure the length of the solar or sidereal day to sub-millisecond
resolution?
Yes. It is not hard at all to measure the Earth's rotational period,
if all you needs is "sub millisecond" It would get harder if you
cared about nanoseconds.
I worked on an amateur project with some others and while measuring
the Earth was not the goal we had to know the Earth's rational period
to do the work. The project was about stellar photometry. But I
leave that part out.....
Basically what we did was mount a camera made out of a small CCD
sensor and a 135mm f/2.8 camera lens salvaged from an old 35mm film
camera. The camera was fixed to the roof of my garage. (This was THE
big cost saving feature: The camera could not move. The mount as
fixed at one location in the sky forever, right at the equator) I
placed it in one end of a long wood crate and it looked up at the
equator through a square hole on the upper end of the box. The box
provided some protection from the elements and provided a lot of light
shielding.
To measure Earth's rotation all you need to do in know exactly when
you took an image and to have a GOOD catalog of star locations. Let's
say your image captures 200 stars. They are rather blurry and each
covers maybe 5 pixels but even so you compute the centroid of each
"gaussian blob" and then do a least squares fit of all those centroids
to the astrometric catalog. The catalog is "good" to several
milliacrseconds and with hundreds of centroids you can figure out were
the camera was printed to a few "MAS" (Milli Arc Seconds). We
took many images every clear night for several years. Hardware cost
today is "not much" and you can use salvaged camera equipment Almost
all of the software is available for free. Certainly matching stares
to catalog images is. Yes the lens has geometric distortion and the
CCD is likely not exactly 90 degrees to the optical axis but the
software models this. This is possible because millions of star
positions are known to insane levels of accuracy and if they appear in
the "wrong" place in your image you can bet the cause is geometric
distortion in your camera, especially after seeing the same error in
hundreds of images. We used narrow filters to limit the image to just
one "color" so the chromatic aberration in the optics i not an issue,
filters are cheap.
As part of our processing we time-tagged each image and also recored
where the optical xis was pointed at.
So you'd need a small telescope or big camera lens and a camera that
can be triggered by a computer and software. Not really expensive.
I'd invest in the best used optics you can and get a monochrome
camera.
Some people in the past century used transit telescopes to manually
measure the time a star crossed a hairline in an eyepiece. Then the
next night to observe the same star again. Now you know the length of
the day (after you reduce the data) Put you can measure a dozen
stars every night and take an average. In concept it is very simple.
But today we can measure a tens of thousands of stars per day from a
suburban roof top.
Almost all other methods of measuring the Earth's rotation do not
collect enough data. You need tens or hundreds of thousands of data
points. if you want to know the sidereal period to Time Nut standards
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
Yes, the below is basically correct. But you save a ton of time and
get better results if you simply bolt the telescope down to the Earth
so that it can't move at all. The aim point just needs to be "close"
and then later you determine where it is aimed. If you are only
measuring period you don't need a surveyed location. If measuring
absolutely time you do.
Using a fixed mount is what makes this affordable by amateurs. Epoxy
the camera to a fixed masonry building. This removes an unknown and
dramatically simplifies the processing and also saves most of the cost
witch is always the mechanical stuff. One package of JB Weld epoxy
replaces thousands of dollars of motors and encoders and precision
gears.
With a fixed mount camera you have two kinds of "tine", that observed
by the camera and a second from your GPSDO. If they diverge then you
deduce that it must be the Earth's rotation that changed. But maybe
you wonder of maybe the camera moved or some effect you forgot to
remove. So it is but to have some buddies running the same setup in
different cities around the world and check that you all see the same
results. That is what we did. It is FAR EASIER to do this kind of
replication when the setup is very inexpensive.
Today you could build a camera for a LOT less then we did. I'm
thinking of a surplus used lens from a 35mm film camera. A 250mm lens
or so and a 3D printed plastic part that holds this to a cheap point
and shoot camera. We used epoxy to held the lens to the camera, it
meant you'd never be abler to take it apart again but it was going on
a roof top, rain and all.
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 3:16 AM, Ilia Platone info@iliaplatone.com wrote:
Bruce,
I think that you refer on prjects like Astrometry plate solving. I think one
should got a reference to get a time reference instead of scope "pointing"
reference, so, once one's got local coordinates in encoder positions, for
example the values of the north pole with an alt/az mounting, can use a
sub/arcsec plate solver to obtain good sidereal timing reference. using two
encoders helps much.
The problem can be visibility of the reference points, however.
Best Regards,
Ilia.
On 12/30/16 10:59, Bruce Griffiths wrote:
Attila
Lookup "Stellar compass" as used for determining space probe attitude.Can
also be used to determine the direction of the centre of an image of a field
of bright stars.Subarcsecond accuracy is fairly routine.Pattern recognition
techniques combined with measures of the relative brightness of the stars is
used to identify them.Subpixel accuracy in determining the location of the
stellar image centroids is also routine.
There is at least one US PhD thesis on such stellar compass techniques.A
stellar compass technique has been used to determine the pointing direction
of small portable telescopes without requiring precision axis encoders etc.
Bruce
On Friday, 30 December 2016 11:43 PM, Attila Kinali
attila@kinali.ch wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2016 10:59:03 +0200
Anders Wallin anders.e.e.wallin@gmail.com wrote:
out of curiosity, are there any amateur/semi-pro experiments that can
measure the length of the solar or sidereal day to sub-millisecond
resolution?
To reproduce data like this:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Deviation_of_day_length_from_SI_day.svg
Something in the sky that goes "ping" every day - detected with a
pointing
accuracy of < 1ms/24h or <0.01 arc-seconds (!?). Or perhaps two
satellite-dishes pointed at the sun and
noise-correlation/interferometry??
I don't know of any such experiment already performed, but I am not up
to date on what's going on in the hobby astronomy community.
I am not sure whether sub-milisecond resolution is feasible, but
I think the "easiest" method would be to do a "modern" version of
an meridian telescope:
Using a camera fix mounted (ie not moving and if possible vibration
isolated)
on a pedestal pointed at the sky, approximately looking south. A simple
webcam would be probably enough for first experiments, as long as you get
a good picture of the stars. A good compact camera which allows to use
a remote shutter with a proper lens and exposure control should be better.
Probably the best resource here are the people/websites that deal with
book scanning, as they tend to automate the whole picture taking process.
Using magic lantern (http://magiclantern.fm) with Canon cameras might
give additional features needed for the task.
From the pictures taken, calculate the positions of the stars (by fitting
circles onto the bright pixels) and figure out which star is which (using
astronomical list of stars). For this step there is a plethora of open
source
astronomical software available, but I don't know how well they fit the
task
of figuring out what the position of the stars relative to the camera
reference
frame. After that, it's just some simple math of calculating the
difference
between the position of the stars and where you would have expecteded them
at the time when the picture has been taken.
Some usefull software projects are:
http://astro.corlan.net/gcx/
http://www.clearskyinstitute.com/xephem/
http://starlink.eao.hawaii.edu/starlink
http://astro.corlan.net/avsomat/index.html
http://rhodesmill.org/pyephem/
HTH
Attila Kinali
--
Ilia Platone
via Ferrara 54
47841
Cattolica (RN), Italy
Cell +39 349 1075999
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
HI
On Dec 30, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Chris Albertson albertson.chris@gmail.com wrote:
Yes, the below is basically correct. But you save a ton of time and
get better results if you simply bolt the telescope down to the Earth
so that it can't move at all. The aim point just needs to be "close"
and then later you determine where it is aimed. If you are only
measuring period you don't need a surveyed location. If measuring
absolutely time you do.
Using a fixed mount is what makes this affordable by amateurs. Epoxy
the camera to a fixed masonry building. This removes an unknown and
dramatically simplifies the processing and also saves most of the cost
witch is always the mechanical stuff. One package of JB Weld epoxy
replaces thousands of dollars of motors and encoders and precision
gears.
With a fixed mount camera you have two kinds of "tine", that observed
by the camera and a second from your GPSDO. If they diverge then you
deduce that it must be the Earth's rotation that changed. But maybe
you wonder of maybe the camera moved or some effect you forgot to
remove. So it is but to have some buddies running the same setup in
different cities around the world and check that you all see the same
results. That is what we did. It is FAR EASIER to do this kind of
replication when the setup is very inexpensive.
Today you could build a camera for a LOT less then we did. I'm
thinking of a surplus used lens from a 35mm film camera. A 250mm lens
or so and a 3D printed plastic part that holds this to a cheap point
and shoot camera.
If by 3D print you mean a filament machine, pretty much all of the useful
filaments will soffen / deform / melt if left in the hot sun for a day. The few
that are more temperature tolerant require an unusual printer to work with
and are a real pain to work with.
One alternative would be a 3D printed mould and a metal casting process.
It would take more than a few steps to get to metal. You also would need
to clean up the casting before it was of any use.
Bob
We used epoxy to held the lens to the camera, it
meant you'd never be abler to take it apart again but it was going on
a roof top, rain and all.
On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 3:16 AM, Ilia Platone info@iliaplatone.com wrote:
Bruce,
I think that you refer on prjects like Astrometry plate solving. I think one
should got a reference to get a time reference instead of scope "pointing"
reference, so, once one's got local coordinates in encoder positions, for
example the values of the north pole with an alt/az mounting, can use a
sub/arcsec plate solver to obtain good sidereal timing reference. using two
encoders helps much.
The problem can be visibility of the reference points, however.
Best Regards,
Ilia.
On 12/30/16 10:59, Bruce Griffiths wrote:
Attila
Lookup "Stellar compass" as used for determining space probe attitude.Can
also be used to determine the direction of the centre of an image of a field
of bright stars.Subarcsecond accuracy is fairly routine.Pattern recognition
techniques combined with measures of the relative brightness of the stars is
used to identify them.Subpixel accuracy in determining the location of the
stellar image centroids is also routine.
There is at least one US PhD thesis on such stellar compass techniques.A
stellar compass technique has been used to determine the pointing direction
of small portable telescopes without requiring precision axis encoders etc.
Bruce
On Friday, 30 December 2016 11:43 PM, Attila Kinali
attila@kinali.ch wrote:
On Fri, 30 Dec 2016 10:59:03 +0200
Anders Wallin anders.e.e.wallin@gmail.com wrote:
out of curiosity, are there any amateur/semi-pro experiments that can
measure the length of the solar or sidereal day to sub-millisecond
resolution?
To reproduce data like this:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Deviation_of_day_length_from_SI_day.svg
Something in the sky that goes "ping" every day - detected with a
pointing
accuracy of < 1ms/24h or <0.01 arc-seconds (!?). Or perhaps two
satellite-dishes pointed at the sun and
noise-correlation/interferometry??
I don't know of any such experiment already performed, but I am not up
to date on what's going on in the hobby astronomy community.
I am not sure whether sub-milisecond resolution is feasible, but
I think the "easiest" method would be to do a "modern" version of
an meridian telescope:
Using a camera fix mounted (ie not moving and if possible vibration
isolated)
on a pedestal pointed at the sky, approximately looking south. A simple
webcam would be probably enough for first experiments, as long as you get
a good picture of the stars. A good compact camera which allows to use
a remote shutter with a proper lens and exposure control should be better.
Probably the best resource here are the people/websites that deal with
book scanning, as they tend to automate the whole picture taking process.
Using magic lantern (http://magiclantern.fm) with Canon cameras might
give additional features needed for the task.
From the pictures taken, calculate the positions of the stars (by fitting
circles onto the bright pixels) and figure out which star is which (using
astronomical list of stars). For this step there is a plethora of open
source
astronomical software available, but I don't know how well they fit the
task
of figuring out what the position of the stars relative to the camera
reference
frame. After that, it's just some simple math of calculating the
difference
between the position of the stars and where you would have expecteded them
at the time when the picture has been taken.
Some usefull software projects are:
http://astro.corlan.net/gcx/
http://www.clearskyinstitute.com/xephem/
http://starlink.eao.hawaii.edu/starlink
http://astro.corlan.net/avsomat/index.html
http://rhodesmill.org/pyephem/
HTH
Attila Kinali
--
Ilia Platone
via Ferrara 54
47841
Cattolica (RN), Italy
Cell +39 349 1075999
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.