time-nuts@lists.febo.com

Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

View all threads

Opening an Isotemp OCXO

BC
Bob Camp
Sat, Oct 29, 2016 1:59 PM

Hi

If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a ~90C crystal
would make sense.

When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective gain of the control
loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if
you put way to much insulation around an OCXO.

I hope the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much. 0.4 A at 5V would be
2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room temperature.

Bob

On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley preilley_454@comcast.net wrote:

More information;

I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera.  The picture shows the copper block
that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F.  In the IR shot the copper block is to the
right.    In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the picture.    This is with the
unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours.  Is that too hot?

While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no cycling.  At 12 volts
it cycled between .9 to .1 amps.  I would not expect cycling for the temperature control
of an OCXO.  I would expect a linear temperature control circuit.

I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board.  The marking is 39-10.
Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts?  If so then it must be a 5 volt unit.  The capacitor
did not explode at 12 volts.

Dropbox link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/52e9d1rva9kpb3w/AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0

Pete.

On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote:

I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at the MIT flea market.
As expected it was dead.  It heats up as expected but looking at the output with a scope there
is nothing.  However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I can see a faint 10 MHz
signal.  It seems that the oscillator is running but the output circuitry is dead.  Reasonable
assumption?

Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without destroying it?

Pete.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a ~90C crystal would make sense. When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective gain of the control loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if you put way to much insulation around an OCXO. I *hope* the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much. 0.4 A at 5V would be 2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room temperature. Bob > On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley <preilley_454@comcast.net> wrote: > > More information; > > I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera. The picture shows the copper block > that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F. In the IR shot the copper block is to the > right. In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the picture. This is with the > unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours. Is that too hot? > > While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no cycling. At 12 volts > it cycled between .9 to .1 amps. I would not expect cycling for the temperature control > of an OCXO. I would expect a linear temperature control circuit. > > I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board. The marking is 39-10. > Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts? If so then it must be a 5 volt unit. The capacitor > did not explode at 12 volts. > > Dropbox link: > https://www.dropbox.com/sh/52e9d1rva9kpb3w/AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0 > > Pete. > > On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote: >> I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at the MIT flea market. >> As expected it was dead. It heats up as expected but looking at the output with a scope there >> is nothing. However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I can see a faint 10 MHz >> signal. It seems that the oscillator is running but the output circuitry is dead. Reasonable >> assumption? >> >> Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without destroying it? >> >> Pete. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Oct 29, 2016 2:20 PM

if its the yellow tantalum. then yes 39 uf at 10V.
Soooo sort of surprised it didn't go nuclear on you.
Makes for a serious mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Sat, Oct 29, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a
~90C crystal
would make sense.

When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective
gain of the control
loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into
oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if
you put way to much insulation around an OCXO.

I hope the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much.
0.4 A at 5V would be
2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room
temperature.

Bob

On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley preilley_454@comcast.net

wrote:

More information;

I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera.  The picture

shows the copper block

that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F.  In the IR shot

the copper block is to the

right.    In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the

picture.    This is with the

unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours.

Is that too hot?

While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no

cycling.  At 12 volts

it cycled between .9 to .1 amps.  I would not expect cycling for the

temperature control

of an OCXO.  I would expect a linear temperature control circuit.

I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board.  The

marking is 39-10.

Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts?  If so then it must be a 5 volt

unit.  The capacitor

did not explode at 12 volts.

Dropbox link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/52e9d1rva9kpb3w/

AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0

Pete.

On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote:

I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at

the MIT flea market.

As expected it was dead.  It heats up as expected but looking at the

output with a scope there

is nothing.  However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I

can see a faint 10 MHz

signal.  It seems that the oscillator is running but the output

circuitry is dead.  Reasonable

assumption?

Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without

destroying it?

Pete.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/

mailman/listinfo/time-nuts

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/

mailman/listinfo/time-nuts

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

if its the yellow tantalum. then yes 39 uf at 10V. Soooo sort of surprised it didn't go nuclear on you. Makes for a serious mess. Regards Paul WB8TSL On Sat, Oct 29, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bob Camp <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a > ~90C crystal > would make sense. > > When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective > gain of the control > loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into > oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if > you put way to much insulation around an OCXO. > > I *hope* the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much. > 0.4 A at 5V would be > 2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room > temperature. > > Bob > > > > On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley <preilley_454@comcast.net> > wrote: > > > > More information; > > > > I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera. The picture > shows the copper block > > that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F. In the IR shot > the copper block is to the > > right. In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the > picture. This is with the > > unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours. > Is that too hot? > > > > While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no > cycling. At 12 volts > > it cycled between .9 to .1 amps. I would not expect cycling for the > temperature control > > of an OCXO. I would expect a linear temperature control circuit. > > > > I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board. The > marking is 39-10. > > Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts? If so then it must be a 5 volt > unit. The capacitor > > did not explode at 12 volts. > > > > Dropbox link: > > https://www.dropbox.com/sh/52e9d1rva9kpb3w/ > AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0 > > > > Pete. > > > > On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote: > >> I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at > the MIT flea market. > >> As expected it was dead. It heats up as expected but looking at the > output with a scope there > >> is nothing. However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I > can see a faint 10 MHz > >> signal. It seems that the oscillator is running but the output > circuitry is dead. Reasonable > >> assumption? > >> > >> Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without > destroying it? > >> > >> Pete. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > >> and follow the instructions there. > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >