Hi
If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a ~90C crystal
would make sense.
When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective gain of the control
loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if
you put way to much insulation around an OCXO.
I hope the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much. 0.4 A at 5V would be
2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room temperature.
Bob
On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley preilley_454@comcast.net wrote:
More information;
I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera. The picture shows the copper block
that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F. In the IR shot the copper block is to the
right. In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the picture. This is with the
unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours. Is that too hot?
While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no cycling. At 12 volts
it cycled between .9 to .1 amps. I would not expect cycling for the temperature control
of an OCXO. I would expect a linear temperature control circuit.
I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board. The marking is 39-10.
Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts? If so then it must be a 5 volt unit. The capacitor
did not explode at 12 volts.
Dropbox link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/52e9d1rva9kpb3w/AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0
Pete.
On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote:
I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at the MIT flea market.
As expected it was dead. It heats up as expected but looking at the output with a scope there
is nothing. However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I can see a faint 10 MHz
signal. It seems that the oscillator is running but the output circuitry is dead. Reasonable
assumption?
Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without destroying it?
Pete.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
if its the yellow tantalum. then yes 39 uf at 10V.
Soooo sort of surprised it didn't go nuclear on you.
Makes for a serious mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Oct 29, 2016 at 9:59 AM, Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If the OCXO was designed for a ~70 C upper end temperature spec, then a
~90C crystal
would make sense.
When you feed +12 into the oven control, you are increasing the effective
gain of the control
loop (it has more power). The cycling you see is the loop going into
oscillation. It’s the same thing that happens if
you put way to much insulation around an OCXO.
I hope the 4 amps below is a typo. 20W into the beast is way to much.
0.4 A at 5V would be
2W. That is a fairly normal number for an OCXO like you have at room
temperature.
Bob
On Oct 29, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Peter Reilley preilley_454@comcast.net
wrote:
More information;
I added a picture to the dropbox from my Flir IR camera. The picture
shows the copper block
that the crystal is attached to running at about 200 F. In the IR shot
the copper block is to the
right. In most of the regular pictures it is toward the bottom of the
picture. This is with the
unit (minus the S30 chip) running on 5 volts for more than 10 hours.
Is that too hot?
While running at 5 volts the current is constant at about 4. amps, no
cycling. At 12 volts
it cycled between .9 to .1 amps. I would not expect cycling for the
temperature control
of an OCXO. I would expect a linear temperature control circuit.
I looked at the tantalum capacitor on the bottom of the board. The
marking is 39-10.
Does that mean 39 uF and 10 volts? If so then it must be a 5 volt
unit. The capacitor
AABmbIj1aK7Zk2J9SNMmu-JAa?dl=0
Pete.
On 10/18/2016 9:11 AM, Peter Reilley wrote:
I bought an Isotemp OCXO82-59 with a frequency of 10 MHz for a $3 at
the MIT flea market.
As expected it was dead. It heats up as expected but looking at the
output with a scope there
is nothing. However looking at the output with a spectrum analyzer I
can see a faint 10 MHz
signal. It seems that the oscillator is running but the output
circuitry is dead. Reasonable
assumption?
Anyway, has anyone had any luck unsoldering the tin case without
destroying it?
Pete.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.