Very interesting. What series resistor did you have these results with? Very interested to compare spec'd temp co.
Regards, Chris
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-------- Original message --------From: Jerry Hancock jerry@hanler.com Date: 2/20/17 2:51 PM (GMT-06:00) To: kc9ieq kc9ieq@yahoo.com Cc: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 332B
I took some of the 100K 1/4 watt resistors from my DAS-46 and heated them with a soldering iron. They ran high pretty quickly. I then used a cheap, 1% Chinese brand metal film and they ran high just about as quickly. The 5% Chinese brand ran low a lot faster. Just bringing the soldering iron near them Interesting in that using one of each, the resistance stayed about right on the parallel value. I then used a high quality Vishay and I couldn’t get it to move with the soldering iron without touching it. These resistors cost about .40 per at Mouser. I was just using my Agilent DMM so I’m sure they were moving, just not within the resolution of the meter. The bottom line is that the carbon comp I replaced with the 50 cent per Vishay was a good move. Had I used the 5% I have, it would have been about the same.
On Feb 20, 2017, at 12:36 PM, kc9ieq kc9ieq@yahoo.com wrote:
Very interesting, very curious to hear your conclusion!
My thought would be to replace these with standard value 5% resistors having good temp co, as calibration should surely make up for any subpar values-- my thinking is that temp drift would be a more major consideration for overall stability. If this is a false assumption of would certainly like to learn why.
Perhaps the old Allen Bradley carbon comps were special in this regard, but the data sheet I've seen for currently available comp resistors had a horrible temperature coefficient-- much worse than the "better" film resistors available today. I stock the Vishay PR02 metal films for rebuilding old tube stuff, which have a temp comp of +/- 250ppm/K. There are much more stable options out there, but I chose this line because of the 500V rating and dark red/brown color which blends into an old chassis more so than tan or bright blue.
Regards,
Chris