HB
Hugh Blemings
Thu, Dec 22, 2016 11:29 PM
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
- happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
- happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
T
timeok
Fri, Dec 23, 2016 8:05 AM
Hi,
I have the complete manual of the HP115BR. Pse contact me directly to send you the file.
If you need I can suggest some service activity normally are needed by this old clock.
Luciano,
timeok@timeok.it
From "time-nuts" time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
To time-nuts@febo.com
Cc
Date Fri, 23 Dec 2016 10:29:01 +1100
Subject [time-nuts] HP 115CR Clock Powerup / Documentation
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
- happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi,
I have the complete manual of the HP115BR. Pse contact me directly to send you the file.
If you need I can suggest some service activity normally are needed by this old clock.
Luciano,
timeok@timeok.it
From "time-nuts" time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
To time-nuts@febo.com
Cc
Date Fri, 23 Dec 2016 10:29:01 +1100
Subject [time-nuts] HP 115CR Clock Powerup / Documentation
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
- happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
_______________________________________________
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
ES
Eric Scace
Fri, Dec 23, 2016 2:40 PM
Hello Hugh & Luciano —
Luciano: Hugh said his clock was a 115CR, not BR. The CR has the mechanical digital display.
I have a 115BR that I want to bring back on the air after about 30 years of power-off in my father’s lab. The state of any electrolytic and tantalum capacitors after that much time has me concerned. I would be very happy to hear details of your experience in servicing the -115BR.
Thank you.
— Eric
On 2016 Dec 23, at 03:05 , timeok timeok@timeok.it wrote:
Hi,
I have the complete manual of the HP115BR. Pse contact me directly to send you the file.
If you need I can suggest some service activity normally are needed by this old clock.
Luciano,
timeok@timeok.it
From "time-nuts" time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
To time-nuts@febo.com
Cc
Date Fri, 23 Dec 2016 10:29:01 +1100
Subject [time-nuts] HP 115CR Clock Powerup / Documentation
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
- happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hello Hugh & Luciano —
Luciano: Hugh said his clock was a 115CR, not BR. The CR has the mechanical digital display.
I have a 115BR that I want to bring back on the air after about 30 years of power-off in my father’s lab. The state of any electrolytic and tantalum capacitors after that much time has me concerned. I would be very happy to hear details of your experience in servicing the -115BR.
Thank you.
— Eric
> On 2016 Dec 23, at 03:05 , timeok <timeok@timeok.it> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> I have the complete manual of the HP115BR. Pse contact me directly to send you the file.
> If you need I can suggest some service activity normally are needed by this old clock.
> Luciano,
> timeok@timeok.it
>
>
> From "time-nuts" time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
> To time-nuts@febo.com
> Cc
> Date Fri, 23 Dec 2016 10:29:01 +1100
> Subject [time-nuts] HP 115CR Clock Powerup / Documentation
> Hi,
>
> I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency
> Divider/Digital Clock - it's electromechanical and I suspect built in
> the mid/late 60s - just slightly older than your humble correspondent.
>
> It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
> http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
>
> I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current
> limited 24V bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time -
> would welcome any thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting
> documentation for the powersupply it's rated at drawing ~250mA
>
> I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual
> online. Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive
> to no avail. There does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase
> - happy to fall back to this if necessary, but any pointers welcome.
>
> My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a
> GPS disciplied 10MHz source :)
>
> Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old
> clocks :)
>
> Kind Regards,
> Hugh
> VK3YYZ/AD5RV
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
CH
Chuck Harris
Fri, Dec 23, 2016 3:13 PM
They are fun little (ha, ha) clocks. There really is no need
to ramp up power. Go for broke, and turn it on.
The only issue you will find in these is a host of wet tantalum
caps that may, or may not be bad. They are on terminal strips,
and are the caps in silver plated metal cans with teflon seals
on the large end. The failure is sulfuric acid leaking out of
the lead on the teflon end.
The other failure issue is the ball bearings on the motor. The
grease is all but certain to be hardened by now. You might be
able to work some light motor oil between the shaft bushing and
the seal.
The motor will not start by itself. You have to open the clock,
press a couple of buttons to start the dividers, and give the
knurled knob on the motor's shaft a spin.
Be careful when setting the odometer display, as it is quite
possible to lock it up. I don't remember how that happens
anymore, but it can.
These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz.
-Chuck Harris
Hugh Blemings wrote:
Hi,
I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency Divider/Digital Clock -
it's electromechanical and I suspect built in the mid/late 60s - just slightly older
than your humble correspondent.
It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current limited 24V
bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time - would welcome any
thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting documentation for the powersupply
it's rated at drawing ~250mA
I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual online.
Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive to no avail. There
does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase - happy to fall back to this if
necessary, but any pointers welcome.
My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a GPS disciplied
10MHz source :)
Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old clocks :)
Kind Regards,
Hugh
VK3YYZ/AD5RV
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
They are fun little (ha, ha) clocks. There really is no need
to ramp up power. Go for broke, and turn it on.
The only issue you will find in these is a host of wet tantalum
caps that may, or may not be bad. They are on terminal strips,
and are the caps in silver plated metal cans with teflon seals
on the large end. The failure is sulfuric acid leaking out of
the lead on the teflon end.
The other failure issue is the ball bearings on the motor. The
grease is all but certain to be hardened by now. You might be
able to work some light motor oil between the shaft bushing and
the seal.
The motor will *not* start by itself. You have to open the clock,
press a couple of buttons to start the dividers, and give the
knurled knob on the motor's shaft a spin.
Be careful when setting the odometer display, as it is quite
possible to lock it up. I don't remember how that happens
anymore, but it can.
These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz.
-Chuck Harris
Hugh Blemings wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've been fortunate enough to acquire a HP 115CR Frequency Divider/Digital Clock -
> it's electromechanical and I suspect built in the mid/late 60s - just slightly older
> than your humble correspondent.
>
> It's similar though not identical to the 115CR shown here
> http://www.leapsecond.com/hpclocks/
>
> I'd like to fire it up - given it's age my thought was to use a current limited 24V
> bench supply and slowly ramp up the voltage the first time - would welcome any
> thoughts on this. I gather from the supporting documentation for the powersupply
> it's rated at drawing ~250mA
>
> I've been unable to locate a scan of the owners manual or service manual online.
> Have looked at time-nuts archives, leapsecond.com and hparchive to no avail. There
> does appear to be a hardcopy available for purchase - happy to fall back to this if
> necessary, but any pointers welcome.
>
> My goal ultimately is to have it on display running, synchronised to a GPS disciplied
> 10MHz source :)
>
> Any thoughts and feedback welcome - this is my first foray into old clocks :)
>
> Kind Regards,
> Hugh
> VK3YYZ/AD5RV
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
HB
Hugh Blemings
Fri, Dec 23, 2016 11:24 PM
Hiya,
My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own
observations now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any
errors in same mine alone;
The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than
3RU and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
construction.
Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
possibly identical.
The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as
many frequency output options.
Maintenance wise;
-
Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
motor must be manually started.
-
Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the
PCBs in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid
leaking out of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
-
One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
-
The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
-
Looks like I can get a paper manual here
http://www.etestmanuals.com/Search.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will
be my next step.
I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
have it on permanent operating display;
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz."
...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when
I return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
Cheers,
Hugh
Hiya,
My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own
observations now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any
errors in same mine alone;
The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than
3RU and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
construction.
Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
possibly identical.
The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as
many frequency output options.
Maintenance wise;
* Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
motor must be manually started.
* Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the
PCBs in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid
leaking out of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
* One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
* The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
* Looks like I can get a paper manual here
http://www.etestmanuals.com/Search.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will
be my next step.
I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
have it on permanent operating display;
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz."
...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when
I return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
Cheers,
Hugh
PS
paul swed
Sat, Dec 24, 2016 1:50 AM
Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show the
corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A good
way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up the
acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No real
experience.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings hugh@blemings.org wrote:
Hiya,
My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own observations
now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
mine alone;
The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than 3RU
and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
construction.
Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
possibly identical.
The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as many
frequency output options.
Maintenance wise;
-
Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
motor must be manually started.
-
Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the PCBs
in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking out
of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
-
One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
-
The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
-
Looks like I can get a paper manual here http://www.etestmanuals.com/Se
arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
have it on permanent operating display;
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz."
...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when I
return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
Cheers,
Hugh
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show the
corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A good
way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up the
acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No real
experience.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings <hugh@blemings.org> wrote:
> Hiya,
>
> My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
> manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
>
> I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own observations
> now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
> mine alone;
>
> The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than 3RU
> and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
> construction.
>
> Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
> itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
> possibly identical.
>
> The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
> wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as many
> frequency output options.
>
> Maintenance wise;
>
> * Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
> the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
> motor must be manually started.
>
> * Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the PCBs
> in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking out
> of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
>
> * One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
> another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
>
> * The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
> Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
> prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
>
> * Looks like I can get a paper manual here http://www.etestmanuals.com/Se
> arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
>
> I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
> have it on permanent operating display;
>
> "These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
> quite loudly at 1KHz."
>
> ...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
>
> Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when I
> return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
>
> Cheers,
> Hugh
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
> ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BH
Bill Hawkins
Sat, Dec 24, 2016 3:29 AM
Got a 113BR clock many years ago because it looked like the clock in the
Smithsonian. Used a 103 precision OCXO for the source.
It is noisy. That's part of why it has a heavy metal case. I expect that
a rebuilt stepping motor might have been quieter. I kept it in a larger
wooden box lined with R19 fiberglass insulation. I used an insulated
wooden front door held by magnetic catches to close the box, had to
remove the door to see it.
The manual reset is a feature. If the clock stops for any reason, it
stays stopped. If it restarted by itself it would authoritatively show
you the wrong time. A battery and float charger are required if you want
to see how much it varies in a year.
If all you want is a technically attractive clock, talk to a watchmaker
about driving it with a synchronous clock motor. Or do your own 10 Hz
stepping motor (or whatever gear ratio is easy).
Best of luck
Bill Hawkins
-----Original Message-----
- Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches
[snip] Similarly the motor must be manually started.
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along quite
loudly at 1KHz."
Got a 113BR clock many years ago because it looked like the clock in the
Smithsonian. Used a 103 precision OCXO for the source.
It is noisy. That's part of why it has a heavy metal case. I expect that
a rebuilt stepping motor might have been quieter. I kept it in a larger
wooden box lined with R19 fiberglass insulation. I used an insulated
wooden front door held by magnetic catches to close the box, had to
remove the door to see it.
The manual reset is a feature. If the clock stops for any reason, it
stays stopped. If it restarted by itself it would authoritatively show
you the wrong time. A battery and float charger are required if you want
to see how much it varies in a year.
If all you want is a technically attractive clock, talk to a watchmaker
about driving it with a synchronous clock motor. Or do your own 10 Hz
stepping motor (or whatever gear ratio is easy).
Best of luck
Bill Hawkins
-----Original Message-----
* Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches
[snip] Similarly the motor must be manually started.
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along quite
loudly at 1KHz."
BC
Bob Camp
Sat, Dec 24, 2016 4:03 PM
Hi
Modern tantalum caps get a bad rap. When you dig into the data, most of it relates to
the “bad old tantalums”. What you have in these devices are the “bad old tantalums”.
When they go, they can make both a massive mess and a real stink.
The idea of keeping things “as built” in vintage gear is never a bad thought. A lot of fine
old gear has been trashed by “improvements” (some done by me …) over the years.
In the case of wet slug tantalums (the proper name for these beasts), not
a real good idea. Replacing them with modern solid slug tantalum caps is a good idea.
They have some “interesting” features in timing circuits, so replacing tantalum with
tantalum is a good idea. Make sure you get the polarity right :)
Bob
On Dec 23, 2016, at 8:50 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show the
corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A good
way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up the
acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No real
experience.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings hugh@blemings.org wrote:
Hiya,
My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own observations
now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
mine alone;
The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than 3RU
and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
construction.
Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
possibly identical.
The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as many
frequency output options.
Maintenance wise;
-
Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
motor must be manually started.
-
Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the PCBs
in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking out
of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
-
One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
-
The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
-
Looks like I can get a paper manual here http://www.etestmanuals.com/Se
arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
have it on permanent operating display;
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz."
...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when I
return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
Cheers,
Hugh
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
Modern tantalum caps get a bad rap. When you dig into the data, most of it relates to
the “bad old tantalums”. What you have in these devices *are* the “bad old tantalums”.
When they go, they can make both a massive mess and a real stink.
The idea of keeping things “as built” in vintage gear is never a bad thought. A lot of fine
old gear has been trashed by “improvements” (some done by me …) over the years.
In the case of wet slug tantalums (the proper name for these beasts), not
a real good idea. Replacing them with modern solid slug tantalum caps is a good idea.
They have some “interesting” features in timing circuits, so replacing tantalum with
tantalum is a good idea. Make sure you get the polarity right :)
Bob
> On Dec 23, 2016, at 8:50 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show the
> corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A good
> way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up the
> acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
> Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No real
> experience.
> Regards
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
> On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings <hugh@blemings.org> wrote:
>
>> Hiya,
>>
>> My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
>> manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
>>
>> I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own observations
>> now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
>> mine alone;
>>
>> The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than 3RU
>> and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
>> construction.
>>
>> Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
>> itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
>> possibly identical.
>>
>> The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
>> wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as many
>> frequency output options.
>>
>> Maintenance wise;
>>
>> * Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
>> the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
>> motor must be manually started.
>>
>> * Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the PCBs
>> in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking out
>> of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
>>
>> * One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
>> another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet ;)
>>
>> * The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
>> Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
>> prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
>>
>> * Looks like I can get a paper manual here http://www.etestmanuals.com/Se
>> arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
>>
>> I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
>> have it on permanent operating display;
>>
>> "These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
>> quite loudly at 1KHz."
>>
>> ...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
>>
>> Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress when I
>> return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Hugh
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
>> ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Dec 24, 2016 4:42 PM
Bob cracking me up and as always your comments are on target. Get the
polarity right. Good news if you get it backwards you instantly know it.
Boy the old keep it the same is a tough question. I fall into the camp of I
want it to reliably work with stability.
I have also fixed much older gear like 1929 radios and at that age the caps
and resistors do change an very magical ways.
So I am not a purest. I like the fact that modern caps are generally
smaller so they will fit into the space available. My belief is that the
smaller space means ultimately a shorter life. Instead of 40-80 years maybe
20-30. Hmmmm not to worried about that, it will be someone else issue. Most
likely the junk man.
But if anything I hope he has a good time with his magical 115BR.
If I do ever see one at the hamfest after reading this thread I am pretty
sure I will stay clear of it. Who needs the noise.
Happy holidays to everyone.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Dec 24, 2016 at 11:03 AM, Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Modern tantalum caps get a bad rap. When you dig into the data, most of it
relates to
the “bad old tantalums”. What you have in these devices are the “bad old
tantalums”.
When they go, they can make both a massive mess and a real stink.
The idea of keeping things “as built” in vintage gear is never a bad
thought. A lot of fine
old gear has been trashed by “improvements” (some done by me …) over the
years.
In the case of wet slug tantalums (the proper name for these beasts), not
a real good idea. Replacing them with modern solid slug tantalum caps is a
good idea.
They have some “interesting” features in timing circuits, so replacing
tantalum with
tantalum is a good idea. Make sure you get the polarity right :)
Bob
On Dec 23, 2016, at 8:50 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show
corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A
way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up
acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No
experience.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings hugh@blemings.org
Hiya,
My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own
now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
mine alone;
The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than
and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
construction.
Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
possibly identical.
The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as
frequency output options.
Maintenance wise;
-
Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
motor must be manually started.
-
Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the
in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking
of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
- One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet
-
The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
-
Looks like I can get a paper manual here
arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
have it on permanent operating display;
"These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
quite loudly at 1KHz."
...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress
mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Bob cracking me up and as always your comments are on target. Get the
polarity right. Good news if you get it backwards you instantly know it.
Boy the old keep it the same is a tough question. I fall into the camp of I
want it to reliably work with stability.
I have also fixed much older gear like 1929 radios and at that age the caps
and resistors do change an very magical ways.
So I am not a purest. I like the fact that modern caps are generally
smaller so they will fit into the space available. My belief is that the
smaller space means ultimately a shorter life. Instead of 40-80 years maybe
20-30. Hmmmm not to worried about that, it will be someone else issue. Most
likely the junk man.
But if anything I hope he has a good time with his magical 115BR.
If I do ever see one at the hamfest after reading this thread I am pretty
sure I will stay clear of it. Who needs the noise.
Happy holidays to everyone.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Dec 24, 2016 at 11:03 AM, Bob Camp <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Modern tantalum caps get a bad rap. When you dig into the data, most of it
> relates to
> the “bad old tantalums”. What you have in these devices *are* the “bad old
> tantalums”.
> When they go, they can make both a massive mess and a real stink.
>
> The idea of keeping things “as built” in vintage gear is never a bad
> thought. A lot of fine
> old gear has been trashed by “improvements” (some done by me …) over the
> years.
> In the case of wet slug tantalums (the proper name for these beasts), not
> a real good idea. Replacing them with modern solid slug tantalum caps is a
> good idea.
> They have some “interesting” features in timing circuits, so replacing
> tantalum with
> tantalum is a good idea. Make sure you get the polarity right :)
>
> Bob
>
> > On Dec 23, 2016, at 8:50 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like you have great advice. But I will add if the tantalums show
> the
> > corrosion do not fire it up. Unless you like smoke and other damage. A
> good
> > way to extend the time you will spend getting it going and cleaning up
> the
> > acid all over everything. Lots-O-fun.
> > Good luck and I have always heard the mechanics were the challenge. No
> real
> > experience.
> > Regards
> > Paul
> > WB8TSL
> >
> > On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 6:24 PM, Hugh Blemings <hugh@blemings.org>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Hiya,
> >>
> >> My thanks for the various replies including to Luciano for the 115BR
> >> manual and Chuck for the timely advice about old caps!
> >>
> >> I'll take a put at summarising the various replies and my own
> observations
> >> now I've the 115BR Manual and the 115CR unit itself - any errors in same
> >> mine alone;
> >>
> >> The 115CR appears to be a slightly later device - it's 2RU rather than
> 3RU
> >> and uses plug in PCBs rather than point to point/tag strip style
> >> construction.
> >>
> >> Based on a quick glance at the 115BR service manual and the 115CR unit
> >> itself, I'd venture they are electrically and mechanically very similar,
> >> possibly identical.
> >>
> >> The 115CR seems to have hard wired DC input polarity relative to ground
> >> wheras the the BR is switchable. The 115CR doesn't have a meter or as
> many
> >> frequency output options.
> >>
> >> Maintenance wise;
> >>
> >> * Divider circuits need to be manually started using internal switches,
> >> the unit has built in rack rails to support easy access. Similarly the
> >> motor must be manually started.
> >>
> >> * Many of the silver can (physically larger) axial capacitors on the
> PCBs
> >> in my unit show signs of corrosion - this presumably the acid leaking
> out
> >> of the tantalum caps as Chuck alluded to.
> >>
> >> * One correspondent suggested replacing the caps right from the word go,
> >> another to go for broke and turn it on - not sure which way I'll go yet
> ;)
> >>
> >> * The mechanical odometer style display needs care not to bind up/jam.
> >> Attention to lubrication/grease for the motor and other bearings seems
> >> prudent. Don't force any of the mechanical components.
> >>
> >> * Looks like I can get a paper manual here
> http://www.etestmanuals.com/Se
> >> arch.aspx?Search=115CR - I think this will be my next step.
> >>
> >> I'll close for now with this quote from Chuck which may dash my plans to
> >> have it on permanent operating display;
> >>
> >> "These clocks are not a lot of fun to live with. They sing along
> >> quite loudly at 1KHz."
> >>
> >> ...so might not be ideal in the otherwise quiet lounge room after all :)
> >>
> >> Thanks again all for the input so far, will report further progress
> when I
> >> return to the device in the new year after a house move :)
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >> Hugh
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/m
> >> ailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>