Nemko is the Norwegian "UL", my guess is the numbers are the
test/certification numbers. A picture would help

-pete

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 5:14 PM, Glenn Little WB4UIV <
glennmaillist@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Pete,

I do not know if I can send a picture to the mailing list.

I am sending this to you and the list.

The antenna is 4 inches from tip of cone to bottom of type-N connector.
It is 2 5/8" in diameter.

Thanks
Glenn

On 9/5/2016 8:25 PM, Pete Lancashire wrote:

--

Glenn Little                ARRL Technical Specialist  QCWA  LM 28417
Amateur Callsign:  WB4UIV            wb4uiv@arrl.net    AMSAT LM 2178
QTH:  Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx)  USSVI LM  NRA LM  SBE ARRL TAPR
"It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class
of the Amateur that holds the license"

It's a Huber Suhner.

Chris

Yo Richard!

On Mon, 5 Sep 2016 19:48:14 -0700
"Richard (Rick) Karlquist" richard@karlquist.com wrote:

When I did this for testing labs, I took a cardboard box, a 60w
incadescent light bulb, and a cheap thermostat.  Set the thermostat to
a bit above max ambient and you are good to go.  For more precise temp
control, put a fan in the box to prevent temperature startification.

RGDS
GARY

Gary E. Miller Rellim 109 NW Wilmington Ave., Suite E, Bend, OR 97703
gem@rellim.com  Tel:+1 541 382 8588

Rick,

I'm going from memory here.  My former business partner (now deceased) had
a "beer fridge" setup as an environmental chamber for our instruments.  The
trick for stability was to run the AC compressor all the time, and push
against it with heat lamps.  The lamps were controlled with an Omega PID
controller with an RTD hanging in the fridge.  Model was RTD-805 (I just
happen to have it here in my office).  It has a little metal bird cage
around the sensor.  I believe he had a small fan in there too, to circulate
the air.  I removed the electronics and have since sold the commercial
refrigerator.

The instrument he was using in the chamber was an SRS 830 lock in
amplifier.

This is where my memory gets fuzzy.  SRS comped him another 830 because he
taught them how to get 10x or 100x the performance out of it.  I wasn't
working with him at the time but heard the story 50x over the years about
how impressed the SRS folks were about what he did.  I wish I knew those
details.

A buddy of mine that is now at Life Sciences contacted me about how we did
this.  He had the fridge and heater, but was heating using a thermostat to
controller the refrigeration compressor as well as the heater.  This did
not work.

And forgive me if this is way too course for time nuttery.  Just trying to
thow my 2 cents in and worst case you guys will school me on methods that
work even better.  Now I'm using a Sun environmental chamber which is
significantly smaller and meets my needs.

-Bob

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 8:48 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist <
richard@karlquist.com> wrote:

Better stock up on 60W bulbs.  They are becoming outlawed.
(Only kidding, a resistor works as well.)
Also, a foam drink cooler will give a more stable temperature.  You can make it leak a bit of heat to get the thermostat to cycle.  The hard part is the thermostat; they aren't cheap - even the low cost ones at the hardware store that work on low voltage.

Bob

On Monday, September 5, 2016 8:30 PM, Gary E. Miller <gem@rellim.com> wrote:

Yo Richard!

On Mon, 5 Sep 2016 19:48:14 -0700
"Richard (Rick) Karlquist" richard@karlquist.com wrote:

When I did this for testing labs, I took a cardboard box, a 60w
incadescent light bulb, and a cheap thermostat.  Set the thermostat to
a bit above max ambient and you are good to go.  For more precise temp
control, put a fan in the box to prevent temperature startification.

RGDS
GARY

Gary E. Miller Rellim 109 NW Wilmington Ave., Suite E, Bend, OR 97703
    gem@rellim.com  Tel:+1 541 382 8588

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

The bargain price mini coolers are often peltier cooled, they appear to
fall under the marketing term "thermoelectric mini-fridge". I can't think
of a project name, but I'm sure I've seen this done before using a mini
fridge.

On Monday, 5 September 2016, Richard (Rick) Karlquist richard@karlquist.com
wrote:

As with most things here - it depends.

I have a converted wine cooler I use for some things.  Bought it for $20
at a flea market. It had blow a fuse on the power supply. This appears
to be a common failure. Won't handle much thermal load, but it's a
Peltier unit, so it will heat as well if wired correctly.  If I need
quicker cooling or lower temps, a couple of pounds of dry ice wrapped in
paper bags usually does the trick.  Heat usually isn't a problem.  I
have a stock of power resistors and many, many watts of power supply.

When I need really hot I use the toaster oven I use for reflow soldering.

I use the 'pico reflow' for temp control.
https://apollo.open-resource.org/mission:resources:picoreflow  It's
Raspberry PI based and provides a lot of flexibility. I keep meaning to
do a board to collect all the control bits so I don't have to hand wire
them.  I'm looking at the Microchip MCP9600 for the thermocouple interface.

I had to do thermal shock for a project a few years back.  A CO2 tank
and a cheap foam cooler handled that nicely.

On 9/5/2016 9:48 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:

Oz (N1OZ in DFW)

--
mailto:oz@ozindfw.net
Oz
POB 93167
Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)